Sort your switches

Ten steps to sweetening up the switchgear on older bikes

Stick then squirt 1

Lights or indicators suddenly stopped working? Before you start chasing an electrical fault you should first consider a problem with the switchgear. Faulty buttons are quite common on older bikes and the problems often stem from corrosion on the small mechanical components inside. Often simply squirting WD40 into the switch will get you home.

Remove the housing 3

Next remove the switchgear from the handlebar by undoing the two screws from the underside of the switch housing. A good tip here is to use the correct size and type of screwdriver. These are often crosshead screws that are easily rounded off if the wrong type is used. For example, Japanese bikes will require a JIS screwdriver (see column, right).

Trace back wiring 2

For a proper fix the switchgear will need to be removed and stripped down. Start by disconnecting the bike’s battery then trace the electrical lead from the swtichgear and disconnect it from the main loom. The connectors are usually located under the tank or inside the headlight assembly, so make a note of the steps to assist you with re-assembly.

Split in half 4

With the switchgear removed from the bike place it in an area where any small parts are going to be contained, a stainless steel tray is ideal. Gently splay the two halves apart, often there are wires that keep the two halves together so don’t strain these. Give the inside of the switches a visual inspection to look for corrosion and broken wires etc.

Hunt for rust 5

Corrosion on the contacts will stop the electrical current making progress, so you will need to clean it off. Look closely and undo the smaller screws which secure the switches to the inside of the housing. Make a note or take a picture of the layout and routing of wires to help with re-fitting.

Inspect the joints 7

While the switchgear is stripped down, inspect all of the joints that are soldered to the individual switches. Any build up of corrosion should be cleaned away and rinsed off with a brake or contact cleaner. Any broken joints should be re-soldered. If you have to do this, make sure you strip back the insulation to reveal fresh wire for a clean and reliable repair.

Lubricate then rebuild 9

With all of the internal switches cleaned and repaired make sure they are all lightly lubricated with dielectric grease, then before reassembly give the inside of the switchgear a thorough clean with contact cleaner. Reassemble the switches and brackets as per the pictures taken earlier. Make sure you use the correct screws and fasteners.

Gently scrub 6

With all of the internals stripped out, start cleaning each and every part very carefully. You can use Scotchbrite pads in conjunction with contact or brake cleaner. Don’t use anything too abrasive because this will remove protective plating from the metal parts. Be very gentle and methodical.

Strip down sticky switches 8

Any switches that have been sticking need to be stripped down to their individual components. A switch like this is held together by a lightweight pressed steel bracket and gets its strength from being retained within the switchgear housing. Gently prise it apart and clean the inner components using the same method as in step six.

Test then refit 10

When the switches have all been refitted into the switchgear housing, check that they all function properly before refitting them to the handlebars. Plug it back into the connector and test all of the individual switches, in some cases the switchgear will need to be earthed via the bar. Re-fit and route the wires as per your workshop manual.