Putting on weight

Easy tweaks will get your bike pillion and luggage ready

A weighty problem 1

Your bike’s standard suspension setup has been designed for a solo rider and a light load. If you start carrying a passenger and luggage you’ll notice that the handling characteristics can change, sometimes dramatically, meaning you need to make a few changes to keep things sweet. Check the owner’s manual for the correct procedure for your bike.

Don’t take it to the max 2

The extra weight your bike can carry will affect how it behaves, which is why there are maximum permissible load warnings in the owner’s manual as well as stickers on the bike. Refer to this information when carrying a pillion and luggage. Over-loading a bike will upset steering, braking and stability in a potentially dangerous way… you have been warned.

Increase the pressure 3

Some motorcycle manufacturers, such as Honda, now quote the same tyre pressures both for a bike with a solo rider as well as fully loaded with a pillion, but check your bike’s manual or the sticker on the swingarm for details. It’s usual for the rear tyre to run a higher pressure (often 42psi) when the bike is carrying a passenger and luggage.

Squeeze the spring 4

The main adjustment you’ll need to make to the suspension is to increase rear preload, this preloads the spring with extra force making it harder to compress. With most bikes this is done by turning the bottom of rear shock with a tool. The bottom of the shock lifts the spring by means of 10 stepped ridges, which squeeze the spring.

Get the right tools 5

The tool needed to adjust the shock is basically a type of C-spanner and is often supplied in the bike’s tool kit. Some will come with an extension bar to help give greater leverage. Read the manual, as sometimes you may need to remove a piece of trim panel or bodywork for access.

Apply some pressure 6

Fit the C-spanner on the shock and make sure it fits into the grooves or notches. The effort needed to move the adjuster ring is often quite large, as it has to overcome the spring. Use a smooth controlled force instead of a quick jerking action, any slippage will result in skinned knuckles.

Compression check 7

Higher-spec shocks allow for the damping rates to be adjusted. Like the preload, the damping rates will also often need increasing when fully loaded. The damping rates are changed with either clickers or a screwdriver. Most road bike shocks have a compression damping adjuster on the top of the shock which is turned clockwise to increase the damping.

On a rebound 8

The other damping adjuster is the rebound damping, like the compression it is adjusted either by a dial or a clicker. More rebound damping slows down the return rate of the shock, and less makes it return faster giving a bouncy uncontrolled feel. You’ll most likely need to add a few clicks/turns more, based on your preference.

Locking rings 9

Some shocks will have a threaded preload adjuster and changes to these types of shock are made by undoing the locking rings and winding the adjuster ring down. Before adjusting, check the current setting by measuring the amount of exposed thread above the locking ring before adjustment using a steel ruler or tape measure.

Wind it up 10

Using a C-spanner undo the lock ring by half a turn and then wind up the adjuster ring. When you have the correct adjustment, lock the top ring tightly and then measure the amount of thread exposed and make a note of it. Take the bike for a test ride with the bike fully loaded, the front end should feel more planted and there should be better balance from the steering.