Line up your wheels

Perfect your handling with arrow-straight wheel alignment

Don’t rely on swingarm adjustment marks

Rear wheel alignment is usually taken care of by chain adjustment. It’s done by aligning the chain adjusters with the correct marks on the swingarm, but relying on these marks can cause issues as they’re often inaccurate. Measure from the spindle to a fixed point on the swingarm forward of the adjuster and adjust both sides until the measurement is the same.

It’s easier with a single-sided swingarm

Some bikes don’t require alignment checking on both sides of their swingarm. On shaft drive bikes with no chain, for example, the wheel is permanently fixed in position with no adjustment needed. Single-sided swingarms adjust the drive chain within the hub, and therefore tension the chain without the faff of checking rear wheel alignment as per a conventional set-up.

Shining a light on the issue

You can see if a wheel is out of line by looking at the path of the chain. Looking from the top of the rear sprocket, and shine a torch forward to the front sprocket the chain should run arrow straight. If this is not the case, the chain/wheel will need to be adjusted before you ride it again. You may even notice nibbling wear on your rear sprocket if it’s badly out of alignment.

Bearing down on the problem

One problem that can often be attributed to poor wheel alignment are worn wheel bearings. Put the bike on a paddock or mainstand, and check for any rocking motion, then remove the rear wheel. Check that the wheel bearings are in good order; they should turn with no notchiness or binding, don’t forget to check the bearing in the sprocket hub if one is fitted.

Refer to the manual for correct chain tension

With the bearings checked/replaced, re-fit the rear wheel making sure the spacers are fitted correctly. Adjust the chain tension correctly using the prescribed amount of slack as per the manual, and whilst doing so make sure the marks on the swingarm are the same each side.

Follow the rule

Before you tighten the spindle nut, check the chain run from the rear sprocket to the front sprocket (see step three). To check alignment independently of the adjusters measure from the centre of the spindle to the centre of the swingarm spindle with a rule; the measurement should be equal.

Aligning with a laser tool

There are a few tools that can help line a chain up correctly. The Tru-Tension Laser Monkey shown here is very easy to use and simply attaches to the top of the rear sprocket/chain and emits a thin beam of laser light on the top of the chain. If the chain/wheel is set correctly the beam will follow the centre of the chain along its entire length.

Clear the way for the laser beam

The Laser Monkey device needs to be fitted to the top of the rear sprocket. On some bikes, like this Kawasaki ZX-10R, it can’t fit without first removing the stock chain guard, because the laser beam needs to have an unobstructed view of the top side of the chain run. Most chain guards can be easily removed in two sections by undoing three Allen bolts.

Attach the laser tool to the rear sprocket

Fit the laser Monkey tool to the top of the rear sprocket. It needs to be secured firmly in place and sit squarely on the sprocket – so be aware of anything on the sprocket that could prevent its clean mounting. The idea is that when the laser beam is switched on, it is centred in the middle of the chain rollers along the entire length of the chain up to the front sprocket.

Check one link at a time

Check the location of the laser dot on the closest link to the tool, and then gradually adjust the beam along the chain towards the front sprocket. If the laser runs to one side of the chain, then the wheel is out of line. Use the adjusters to correct this runout until the laser dot is in the middle of the chain. Do a final check of the tension and torque up everything to spec.