MCN

How to ensure your bike’s backend doesn’t seize up this winter

Grease those bearings to keep your suspension sweet

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Under-slung hero

The suspension linkage is responsibl­e for transmitti­ng the movement of the swingarm to the shock and needs to be in good condition to function efficientl­y. Due to the location under the bike, weather and road salt can take its toll, so parts need to be well greased. First, familiaris­e yourself with the specific procedure for your bike in a workshop manual.

Make a stand

To access and dismantle the linkage, you first need to support the motorcycle in a way which doesn’t involve the swingarm, which means a convention­al rear paddock stand won’t do this time. A centrestan­d is ideal, but if your particular bike doesn’t have one, use an ABBA stand which supports the weight safely from the swingarm pivot points.

Get yourself some space

Next, remove any panels, bodywork or parts required for you to gain access to the linkage and lower shock area. In the case of the Honda VFR800 we are working on today, the linkage itself is very easily accessed but the rear wheel needs to be taken out in order to gain the space needed to use a 17mm spanner on the base of the system.

Undo the nuts

The next step is to remove the nuts which secure the linkage, they’re usually between 14 and 17mm. Leave the bolts in place at this stage. Take a snapshot of the linkage with your mobile phone; it sounds daft but once you’ve got the linkage in your hand it’s not always obvious which way it goes back in and a picture guide can save an awful lot of bother.

Remove the linkage

With the nuts removed, the bolts should now tap out quite easily. If possible, take the shock bolt out first. At this point the swingarm, or back wheel if still fitted, will drop slightly so prepare to take the weight. Take out the remaining bolts and carefully extract the linkage.

Time to clean

Place all the parts in a tray for cleaning and inspection. Disassembl­e the linkage. Make a note of the internal bushes as they are often different lengths. Gently prise out any seals. Apply cleaner or degreaser liberally and agitate with a brush as necessary.

Check the condition

Inspect for corrosion or wear on the collars that roll in the needle bearings. The seals often gather road dirt so make sure these are cleaned and are not worn or torn. They can usually be gently prised out with ease. Once everything is clean, give them a blast off with brake cleaner and dry with a clean rag or paper towel.

Get greased

Next apply a good coating of grease to the bearing rollers. Work it in using the linkage pin in a twisting motion. Clean the bolts up using emery or wet and dry to remove any corrosion, then make sure they are clean before applying a light film of red grease to help keep everything protected when it is back on the bike.

Clean the surroundin­g surfaces

Before you fit the linkage back into the bike, clean all the surfaces on the shock and swingarm that the linkage bolts into – this is also an opportunit­y to clean places which are usually hard to reach. Use a brake cleaner for stubborn debris .Refit the pins into the linkage, making sure that the correct length ones are in the right place (that photo on your phone may come in handy).

Reference, rebuild and retorque

Refer to your photograph once again and refit the linkage in the correct position on the machine. Keep an eye out for any embossed marks indicating which way up it should go. Fit the bolts and washers and tighten by hand to begin with. When you are satisfied that it is installed correctly, torque up to the specificat­ion as per workshop manual. Give everything a final check and go for a test ride.

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