How to ensure your control cables never let you down
Boost clutch lever feel and restore that new-bike feel
1 Lost that esssential feel?
A clutch cable will function well for years without maintenance or adjustment but as time goes by you’ll notice that you start to lose feel and precision at the lever. The good news is that it’s not always a sign the cable needs replacing. First remove the cable from the lever by screwing in the cable adjuster, lining up the slots and lifting the cable free.
3 Assess for damage
Pull the end of the cable to see if it moves freely inside the plastic sleeve – there should be no binding or snags. If you feel resistance inspect the outer for damage and then look at how the cable is routed. If it’s been rubbing against another component the protective outer will have been compromised, which can then prevent the cable from working smoothly.
2 Remove from the engine
The cable is routed down to the engine and connects to the casings via a bracket-mounted actuating lever and a simple locknut adjusting assembly. Loosen the locknuts and threaded section so that there is enough slack to remove the cable from both the actuating lever and lever. The cable should now be free at both ends.
4 No need for lube
One of the myths about clutch cables is that they require lubrication – they do not. Almost all modern clutch cables have been designed to have minimal friction by using PTFE/Teflon liners inside which the stainless steel cable slides perfectly without any lubrication. Unless your bike is a classic or you need to make a temporary roadside fix, keep the lube away.
5 Check the lever
If you decide to replace the cable, make sure you know how it should be routed – there will be diagrams in the bike’s workshop manual. Before you refit the cable check that the lever on the handlebar is free and does not bind. You will see that the lever pivots on a bolt via a bush pressed into the lever.
7 Don’t overdo it
With the pivot bolt reinstalled care should be taken not to overtighten it. The bolt screws into threads on the bracket and only needs enough force to seat itself squarely and act as a spacer for the lever bush. The nut that secures the onto the end of the pivot bolt is often a self-locking type and again requires very little force.
9 Take up the slack
Install the clutch cable at the lever first and then at the engine. Take up most of the slack on the adjusters to roughly the same as before then nip the locknuts up. At the lever, adjust the slack according to spec – typically 2-3mm. Slack is measured as the distance between the lever bracket and where the lever seats.
6 Don’t hit the switch
The pivot bolt that goes through the bush on the lever should have a light coating of grease. Give it a clean and apply a dab of grease and re-install it; there is often a microswitch in the bracket and you should be aware of how the lever interacts with the switch, as it can lead to starting or running problems.
8 Grease the end
The cable is ready to be installed, but first clean the nipple on the lever end then apply a minimal amount of grease to help lubricate it as it pivots on the lever during operation. The nipple on this OE replacement cable has a nylon bush surround which helps to reduce friction, and is something a pattern cable will probably not have.
10 A different way of measuring
If your workshop manual indicates a much greater value for the freeplay – say around 10-20mm – this refers to slack at the lever end not the pivot point. From the ball at the tip of the lever, measure the freeplay with a ruler at 90 degrees to the handlebar and then set it using the adjusters.