Whip wheels off…
Spin out those spindles quickly, easily and safely, too
Don’t assume knowledge
Removing wheels is one of those tasks that on the face of it appears relatively easy, however you can easily create problems for yourself if you’re not familiar with the correct process and sequence for your particular model, as it often varies from bike to bike. Any errors can cause wheels to be misaligned, so check your owner’s manual for specific details.
Gather your equipment
Make sure you have the correct tools. Typically, you need a large socket for the rear and front spindle nuts, or a large Allen key adaptor. Common sizes are 17mm, 19mm, 22mm and 24mm. With the bike still on the ground, crack the spindle nuts then put the bike on front and rear paddock stands, or a swingarm pivot stand.
Slide off and support the calipers
Loosen and remove the brake caliper bolts on both sides, then carefully slide the calipers off the discs. Often there is little space between the caliper and wheel, so placing some tape on the rim will help protect the wheel’s painted finish. Tie the calipers back using bungee cords so that they are away from the wheel.
Sort your spacers
Loosen, but don’t remove, the pinch bolts on the bottom of both fork legs, then completely undo the spindle fastener. Bikes with ABS may need a wire or sensor unclipping from the brake hose too. Then wiggle out the spindle and gently lower the wheel down. Remove the wheel spacers from the hub, making a note of what which side each one came from.
Be a slave to the sequence
To reinstall, fit the spacers in the correct sides then lightly grease the spindle, offer up the wheel and slide the spindle back in. The sequence and specs for retightening the spindle and pinch bolts is critical. Consult your owner’s manual. With everything correctly torqued, take the bike off the front stand and pump the brake lever.
Now the rear…
To remove the rear wheel, undo the spindle nut and remove it along with the washer. Some bikes will need to have the chain adjusters fully wound in so that there is max slack. Find or craft a block of wood that will support the wheel when the spindle has been removed. Once the wheel is chocked up remove the spindle.
Unhook the chain and caliper
With the spindle out, the block of wood now supports the wheel, roll it forward and unhook the chain from the sprocket then lay it gently on the outside of the swingarm. Remove the rear caliper from its locating track, making sure you carefully guide it past the wheel. Watch for any spacers that fall out.
Look for witness marks
With the wheel now removed, check the spindle and chain adjusters and spacers. The chain adjuster blocks or carriers are often specifically shaped to face only one direction, but can easily be installed the wrong way. Check them carefully and look for ‘witness marks’ from the adjuster bolt heads to help give you a clue.
Get spacers and caliper in place
To refit, roll the rear wheel up the block of wood but stop short to allow space to put the spacers in. Slide the caliper onto the disc so that the brake pads are either side of it, then manoeuvre the caliper so its lug fits into the slot on the swingarm. Roll the wheel forward enough to hook the drive chain over the rear sprocket.
Torque up when it’s down
Lightly grease the spindle and re-fit along with the chain adjusters, then refit the nut and washer. Remove the chock and tension the chain to spec. Spin the wheel to check it is free. Tighten the spindle nut firmly by hand, take the bike off the stand and tighten the nut to spec with a torque wrench. Pump the rear brake until it bites.