Piping hot mods…
Time to fit that exhaust you’ve lusted after all winter
Collect your bits 1
First things first, check over what you’ve bought and make sure you’ve got the right things in your hands. There’s nothing worse than getting halfway through a job and discovering the exhaust is for a slightly different model. If you’re unsure, hold it up to the old one. At the same time make sure you’ve got all the gaskets you’ll need.
Strip off the original 2
To get going you’ll need to remove the old system, and in most cases the end can will need to come off first. Fully remove any mounting bolts for the body and completely loosen the clamp that holds on the silencer (or release the exhaust springs). Try to see if the exhaust will come off straight away, if not some taps with a rubber mallet should shift it.
Common sense 3
All modern bikes will have sensors in the exhaust to sniff the mixture – usually up at the headers. On some models these will need to be removed before the pipes, but on others it will be easier after. Take a look at the access and decide which course of action is best. Unplug the sensor from the loom before you unbolt the Lambda sensor to avoid stressing the wiring.
Off at the head 4
Next it’s off with the exhaust nuts. To minimise any stress on the head it’s best to loosen each one bit by bit rather than just unbolting them one at a time. It’s possible the nut will be seized on to the stud, so if things are very stiff to come off, try a bit of heat from a small blow torch. If it’s still not budging, you might be best advised to stop where you are and take it to a pro.
And the rest… 5
The bulk of the exhaust is likely to be supported by the frame, often around the footrests, so you’ll likely need to strip off a few extra bits. With all the mounts removed, steadily pull the whole lot away. An extra pair of hands can help here to avoid marking the bike.
Out with the old 6
Remove the old gaskets with a seal puller or similar. Avoid poking around with the end of a screwdriver. Pop the new ones in straight away so you don’t forget. If they’re being awkward a dab of copperslip or a couple of hours in the freezer can help them go in smoothly.
Shield up 7
If the exhaust has a separate heat shield it’s often easier to fit this off the bike than crane your neck fiddling around with jubilee clips. Refit the exhaust sensors before pluggin them back in to the loom. Pop a light dab of anti-seize on the threads but don’t get any on the sensor.
Bit by bit 8
Add in any new brackets required to hold up the new pipe and reattach any frame parts you’ve removed. Slip the new exhaust into position. Wrapping the frame or the new pipes with masking tape can save accidental damage if you don’t have a helper.
Snug it up 9
Get plenty of anti-seize onto the exhaust stud and exhaust bolts to make things easier if they need to come off again in the future. Gently snug up all the bolts and attach the main exhaust mount, so everything is sitting naturally without tension. Do up the exhaust bolts with a torque wrench, making sure you’re double-checked the correct settings – stripping alloy heads is no fun.
Last steps 10
Slide on the new end can, again using tape if needed to protect any finishes. Nip up the clamp (or attach the springs) and plug in your exhaust sensors. Roll it out into the sunshine and start it up to check for leaks, rattles or other woes. If your new exhaust flows considerably more air or you’ve replaced the filter too, you should consider having the bike remapped on a dyno.