Get wired for power

Fit a USB socket and keep your extras fully charged-up

1 All about the amps

Fitting a USB port means you’ll never have to worry about your devices running out of juice, but care needs to be taken to choose a port that has the correct output. A USB is always 5 volts, this does not vary but the power output in terms of amps does. To power a phone while using it as a satnav you need to have at least 1500mA. This Optimate kit is 3300mA.

2 Look for proper features

With a world of online products at our fingertips, it’s easy to go cheap but you must resist the urge – because buying cheap means buying twice. Look for a product that is weatherproof, able to withstand rain and grime, and most importantly, has protection to prevent the USB port discharging the bike’s battery when the engine isn’t running.

3 Access the bike’s battery

First, find out where the bike’s battery is located, as this is where the USB lead will connect to, and on most models it’s hidden under the seat. Once you’ve accessed it, identify which terminal is positive (it will usually have a red lead attached to it with a ‘+’ mark), and which is negative (usually a black lead with a ‘-’ symbol next to it).

4 Pick off the panels

Always try to hide the wires behind panels and make an effort to route the cables alongside the existing loom. This will not only make it look tidy, but by following the routing of the wires it will also be safer. Many bikes, like the Suzuki shown here, will need to have the sidepanels and forward tank cover removed to gain access to the desired route.

5 Check the length

Do a dry run to make sure the USB lead is able to run the distance needed without being stretched. Run it from your chosen mounting point alongside the desired route to check there is enough length and ensure there is nothing which may damage the cable.

6 Run and tie

With the USB socket at the front of the bike roughly in position, start threading the wire from the front to the back. Follow the route of the bike’s standard wiring exactly, especially between the forks and yokes. Cable tie the wire to the loom as you go.

7 Secure the socket

With the lead now routed and tied all the way back to the battery but not yet connected to the terminals, secure the USB socket. This USB lead kit has been designed for bikes so has a weatherproof cap, and small tie down points on the sides to fix it.

8 Rocking the cradle

There are loads of different types of phone cradle and they can be split into two groups: ones that keep the phone safe in a waterproof case, or the type that just hold the phone in the same way as a car cradle. Don’t assume your phone is as waterproof as it claims to be.

9 Make a connection

With the bike’s ignition off, you can now connect the lead to the battery terminals, the connectors are both supplied with the correct colours and markings to make it easy to get the polarity to the terminals correct. Using an appropriate size screwdriver, tighten the terminals firmly with the leads attached, and then replace any protective rubber caps back on the terminals to make sure they are well protected.

10 Check you’ve got the power

Before you refit the bodywork panels, plug in the phone and switch on the bike’s ignition to make sure that the socket charges the phone. At the same time, check again that there is no binding from the cables when steering is on full lock, both left and right. Finally, refit the tank and any panels, double checking that no wires are pinched as you do so. Have another check to make sure the charger still works and you are good to go.