CHINESE MEDICINE

Real Sichuan food is hot – really hot. It numbs the mouth with a tongue-tingling edge, and it’s this unfamiliar effect that is the sine qua non of cooking from this area. Without it, you’re either eating Chinese food from a different region, or made by a chef who doesn’t know his anise from his peppercorns. Fortunately Sichuan native Bing Fu, head chef at Soho’s renowned Barshu, is a master of spice.

01- RULE OF NUMB

Sichuan’s punch comes from a tangle of spice, salt and sweet flavours. “This balance defines Sichuan,” says Fu. “The spice comes from red chillies, which are dried to intensify them before cooking. Then we add fragrant and sweet red and green peppercorns to numb your lips and mouth.” Unlike black peppercorns, the red versions are rich in metabolismbalancing oils such as limonene, linalool and geraniol.

02- ROOT MANOEUVRES

As a mainstay of traditional Chinese medicine and Sichuan dishes, ginger is brimming with antibacterial and digestion-boosting benefits. Along with garlic it doubles as an anti-inflammatory to further benefit your stomach. Which perhaps goes some way to breaking the old stereotypes about our British take on Chinese food and its effect on your innards. Your local Jade Garden this ain’t.

03- FLOWERED UP

“We frequently use amomum as a flavour enhancer,” says Fu. “It’s of the ginger family and related to cardamom, but dried with smoke for depth.” Use it in slow-cooked curries or stews. It won’t dominate the dish, but adds smoky sweetness, unique to Sichuan cooking. Meanwhile its antispasmodic and antiseptic properties maintain gut health.

04- RAISE THE STEAKS

What separates Barshu from other restaurants focused on this region is an investment in produce. “We buy the best meats and the best fish,” says Fu. “You should invest in all of your cooking. Instead of cheap cuts of beef, use fillet. If you’re cooking with fish, find good quality sea bass. You’ll be amazed at the difference it makes to the final dish.”

05- SERVICE CHARGE

Finally, and perhaps the most distinct component in true Sichuan cuisine, red fragrant oil is added to most dishes. This is a reduction made from stewing anise, bay leaf, amomum, spring onion, fennel, ginger and chilli that you can cook up at home and store. “For cold dishes, we pour the oil on for fragrance,” says Fu. “But we also add it to stir fries to give it an extra kick just before plating up.”