SIAMESE DREAMS
Authentic Thai food, just like legit Cantonese and genuine Indian, has traditionally been under-represented on these shores. But all critics agree that Andy Oliver’s Som Saa in Spitalfields is the real deal. Having spent time working at the renowned Bo.lan in Bangkok, Oliver learned to coax the best out of every component. It’s this approach that has become the cornerstone of his revered take on regional Thai dishes.
01- BASE INSTINCTS
A holy trinity forms the base of most Thai dishes. “We love white pepper, coriander root and garlic,” says Oliver. “Pound them down and you’ll have an instant Thai aroma.” The result is a base that packs a hefty, piquant punch. Often overlooked in Western cooking, coriander root has been proven to reduce inflammation – useful considering how spicy things are about to get.
02- DRY HEAT
“It’s important to leave Western ways at the door when cooking Thai,” says Oliver. “Rather than buying dried flakes, dry-roast chillies in a frying pan – some small spicy ones and big, smoky ones – until darkened, then blitz into a powder. The flavour is incredible.” According to the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition the heat is more than enough to scorch through your risk of type 2 diabetes. Keep that bottle of Chang handy.
03- UPPER HUSK
Spice is balanced by the sweetness of coconut cream in Thai cooking. “Get the meat from a coconut shell, then blitz it with hot water. Squeeze it into a bowl through a muslin cloth and the cream will rise to the top.” The effort is worth it: canned versions contain xanthan gum, a stabiliser linked to intestinal problems.
04- HOME BREW
“Fermented fish is essential to Thai cooking,” says Oliver. “Fish sauce and shrimp paste give Thai food its umami flavour and add depth. A little goes a long way.” Ask your local Asian grocer for Nam Pla and use it in curries, marinades and fried dishes. If you need to hold your nose, just remember each tablespoon packs 2g of protein.
05- JAM PACKED
To elevate anything from salads to soups, Oliver recommends Nam Prik Pao. “It’s Thai chilli jam: a dark, smoky, slightly sweet and spicy paste that injects a massive hit of flavour into whatever you’re cooking. It’s even good on your boiled eggs.” The garlic, chilli and shallots the recipe traditionally calls for make this your one-stop early morning immunity-booster.