My mind in the gutter!

I would like to comment on the letter, Injection Issues (February, p19). I have seen it suggested that now when injectors are changed (my 22-registered Chausson S697 had all four changed in Sept 2023 now with five years’ warranty), software is reprogrammed to completely close off the air inlet to the injectors, reducing corrosion due to long hours with no use.

Is there any truth in certain forecourts having poor-quality fuel? I can see issues with the occasional cause of contamination but, in my area (Portsmouth/Southampton) don’t the various suppliers come from the same refinery, ie,

Fawley, or is there good or poor-quality fuel going to different customers.

It seems all later-model Ford Transits have been manufactured with a very crudely designed and applied front windscreen gutter. The only way to fix this (if you do not want water dripping from window/gutter into the engine bay) is:

1. Completely remove said gutter (the offside wiper arm has to be removed), then clean thoroughly where the wiper sits and 200mm on the outer lower edge of each windscreen.

Use alcohol-like industrial methylated spirit (IMS). Add an extension if the outer gutter end pieces are too short. With a clear or black marine silicone, bond the gutter back in place. Place a strip of wood into the gutter and load the whole gutter with some weight to hold down.

Look for a small funnel and slightly cut it to fit in the wheelarch below the gutter outlets. You can cable tie it in place (there are holes to enable this, just use long ties). Then superglue (with accelerator) a half-inch hose to allow water to exit just in front of and above the wheel – fix by cable tie. It seems most Transits have a missing rubber seal at one of the wiper arms, so buy and fit one.

2. Remove and seal again, with clear marine-grade silicone, both of the bonnet inlet vents.

3. Each bonnet vent has a L-shaped outlet. Most seem to be fitted as made; however, they barely have a means for water exit. So with, ideally, a scalpel (as it is neater) or knife or cutters, remove threequarters of a millimetre off the end. Likely debris stuck in there will also be carried away.

Here, as water is going to drip, make covers on vulnerable dry targets. If nothing is at hand, Correx (plastic cardboard/surface protection) is great for lid/box making and easy to work with after a couple of tries.

4. In the cab, get access to the void beyond the right and left cup holders and, using Correx, etc, cut strips 20/50mm and push them one at a time in series such as they cover all the electronics/wiring. Then use duct tape to tie/key these strips as one. This will eliminate water

and moisture running on the inside of the windscreen, causing the lights to permanently stay on.

Buying or making a tray will reduce water running onto the fuel injectors, but is missing the point that it is the gutter that is the problem.

The work will take a casual day by the inexperienced and two to four hours for a competent DIYer or a professional.

Ideally, the work needs to be done in a dry and warm environment like a garage or on a dry 15°C-plus day outside.

Because of the nature of heat and moisture, there will be some condensation, but not rain as happens prior to this rework.

5. Do not open the bonnet without drying off surface water – as it will go in the engine bay.

Roger