ADDING REAL COAL TO POWERED TENDERS
I’m detailing an old tenderdrive Hornby ‘A3’ and want to add a load of real coal chippings to the bunker. But the moulded coal is rendered so full that adding more on top is likely to put the model ‘out of gauge’! Any ideas? Jon Maguire, by e-mail
George says: On many ‘OO’ gauge tender-driven steam locomotives, the coal is moulded in such a way as to allow maximum clearance for the mechanism within. Altering this is not easy and it’s often impossible to render much in the way of interior detail to the bunker. However, we can lower the level of the coal slightly by cutting out the moulded rendition and adding a false floor just below the surface. A sheet of plastic card will suffice and it may have to be shaped slightly to clear the top of the motor, especially for Hornby models featuring the bulky Ringfield mechanism. Care is needed when cutting out the moulded ‘coal’, using a drill to remove most of the waste. Work well away from the edge of the tender and, after cutting away the bulk of unwanted plastic, files can be employed to work back towards the edges for a safer and neater job. Fettle a sheet of plastic card (30 thou’ should be strong enough) to give a nice snug fit inside the tender opening and check that there’s still enough room for the motor. Strips of tape will hold the plastic in position while the body is placed back onto the chassis. If the fit is too tight, remove the plastic and, after dipping it in hot water, form it into a slightly curved profile to give a few precious millimetres of clearance, as required. Once the plastic has cooled it should retain its new profile. Re-fit the plastic and re-check the amount of clearance, repeating the process until you’re happy. Remember to leave at least a few millimetres between the plastic and the motor to avoid any issues of distortion as the motor heats up during operation. Even after adding a plastic ‘floor’, onto which the real coal chippings will be laid, it’s best to add the coal – and the adhesive – before the tender body is re-fitted to the chassis. The last thing we want is watery glue seeping through any gaps onto the motor, electrics and gears. Allow a week for the glue to harden completely before reassembly.