STEP BY STEP

CHRIS NEVARD – BUILDING BALA TOWN’S TRACK AND SCENERY

1

The architect’s drawings suggested a canopy over the platform lines, but with no indication of design, I used the popular Peco Manyways overall roof as it boasted the correct footprint.

2

The roof had to be assembled first, so that the platforms could be spaced correctly. I followed the Peco instructions, taking care due to the fragile nature of the kit. Then I put it to one side while layout construction continued.

3

Next was the forecourt and platforms. Narrow gauge platforms tend to be low, so I used 6mm foamboard. To mark out the platforms, I held a pencil against the edge of my widest coaching stock to ensure adequate clearance.

4

Platform tops were cut from mid-grey mounting board, using the foamboard platform bases as templates before they were glued down. The mounting board tops were glued in place with PVA, and left overnight to dry.

5

The next step was to fix the track down. Peco ‘OO9’ Crazy Track was used and I attached the rails straight to the baseboard – no ballast shoulder was required. Weathering was achieved with aerosol paints.

6

Once the weathering was done and the rail heads cleaned, ballasting followed, using fine, sieved sand. The ‘ballast’ was secured with PVA glue over the sand, diluting the glue with surgical spirit, which speeds the drying time.

7

Walkways were also added from grey mounting card, fixed atop a bed of foamboard, making sure that the top edges stood just below rail height, to allow for easy cleaning of the rails with a track rubber.

8

DAS modelling clay was used to hide the sharp edges of the card, along with a gentle slope from the platform and road to track height. A little PVA glue, brushed on first, helps the clay to adhere.

9

Road surfaces and track ballast were painted using a pale grey interior matt emulsion. The trick is to use a slightly paler shade than you might initially think. Roads on model railways are frequently rendered too dark.

10

Once dry, I added a few thin beige and black washes of diluted matt emulsion to add a little variation in colour. I won’t list manufacturers’ colours here because their names frequently change; just try to select understated shades.

11

For the first time, I tried out some self-adhesive road marking from Scale Model Scenery. Available in a variety of packs, they’re easy to apply, despite being very thin. A knife blade is a perfect tool for accurate positioning.

12

Take your time positioning the road markings, marking out their location with a pencil and ruler first. Once you’re happy with the alignment, pressed the markings down firmly and carefully, rubbing them with a soft cloth.

13

Use the same process to apply parking restriction lines. A selection of radii is available to fit rounded corners. If adding double yellow lines, ensure that they’re placed at a consistent distance from each other and the kerb.

14

Scale Model Scenery also offers fine white markings for delineating parking spaces. Again, mark out their positions using model cars to discern the required width and length, before applying the self-adhesive markings.

15

A quick way to portray kerbstones is to mask off the pavement edge with a little card, then stipple on a paler shade of grey or beige paint. I used matt emulsion, but enamel or acrylic works just as well.

16

On the ornamental traffic islands, short 2mm static grass fibres, from various manufacturers, was applied over a bed of wet PVA glue. Employing a variety of shades avoids an overly uniform appearance for greater realism.

17

Small shrubs, from the War World Scenics (WWS) range, were arranged in symmetric patterns on the twin traffic islands to mimic the typical appearance of ‘civic’ gardening. They were fixed down with small blobs of PVA glue.

18

The landscaped islands were finished with a pair of manicured trees, using a set intended for use on an ‘N’ gauge layout. Care was taken to ensure that the trees stood vertical, being supported while the PVA glue dried.

19

Further details, such as fencing, was added. Punch holes into the card and foamboard base layers to provide secure mounts for theplastic fencing, which can then be glued into position.

20

For less manicured areas of greenery, another mix of 4-6mm static grass fibres were applied over a base of teased-out hanging basket liner, which gives the landscape more of an organic appearance.

21

I added some additional details to the station café’s outdoor seating area, most notably by adding gingham tablecloths and napkins. These were printed from resized images found online.

22

Scale Model Scenery’s laser-cut picnic benches and umbrellas bring some colour and interest to the surroundings, providing visitors with a great vantage point for watching the trains go by.