STEP BY STEP

BUILDING THE STATION ROOF

1

On a sheet of thick plywood, the outline of the two roof truss profiles was marked out carefully. These will act as templates for the main roof members. After checking the angles, the pencil lines were made more distinct.

2

Using the template as a guide for cutting and fettling the angles, Evergreen 0.060in x 0.125in styrene strip was joined with liquid poly cement. Ensure that the parts fit snugly together for neatness and strength.

3

After forming the triangular outline, the strengthening ribs were cut and fitted, again following the template on the base. Doublecheck for straightness of the outer profile before flooding the joints with liquid poly cement.

4

The two different sizes of truss were built side by side, ensuring that the overall height of each was identical. Once all elements had been added, they were left to cure for an hour or so.

5

The liquid cement will cause the plastic to stick to the plywood, but this superficial bond can be gently broken with a broad, flat chisel. Place the trusses to one side and begin assembling the next pair in the same manner.

6

Masking tape was laid out on the workbench to delineate the overall footprint of the roof and the location to the longitudinal bearers, which were formed from Evergreen 5/16in shallow ‘U’ channel.

7

The outer trusses were fixed to the longitudinal bearers. The intermediate trusses were then installed, with lengths of Evergreen 3/16in ‘H’ section acting as apex spacers in between each truss.

8

The roof frame was left overnight to cure fully before removing the masking tape. In the meantime, strips of opaque (Slaters) and translucent (Maquett) corrugated plastic sheet were cut prior to fitting onto the framework.

9

The strips of corrugated sheet were layered onto the trusses, in a similar manner to a tiled roof. The Maquett translucent sheets are rendered in PVC which is best secured with a small amount of cyano or epoxy glue.

10

Once the layers of corrugated sheeting and glazing have been installed, the roof becomes much stronger and more rigid. However, allow the glue to cure overnight before handling the structure.

11

Evergreen 0.375in by 0.150in ‘I’ beam girders were fixed to the longitudinal ‘U’ channel bearers, which added rigidity. Note the simplified pattern of the inner frame trusses, which saved on the amount of strip required.

12

The upright columns were cut from 60mm square plastic section, using a razor saw and a mitre box to ensure the ends were cut squarely. A set square helped to orient them correctly when bonding to the ‘I’ beam girders.

13

One side of the roof structure required a small awning to shelter the outer platform. For convenience, I decided to modify a Ratio island platform canopy kit, which includes a pleasing timber valancing – it’s also available separately.

14

One half of the Ratio apex canopy was employed, with the end and intermediate stretchers trimmed to fit. After securing the canopy to the main roof structure, the decorative valancing was installed.

15

Once the glue had cured, the clear roof panels were masked before the underside, internal framing and columns were sprayed with Tamiya Red Brown acrylic spray. Be sure to wear a facemask while spraying aerosol paints.

16

After flipping the structure upright, the roof was sprayed with a mix of Tamiya IJN Grey and Rubber Black. Careful aiming of the can removed the need for masking, with any overspray mimicking a weathered appearance.

17

The paint was allowed to dry for a few days before the masking tape was gently peeled away, revealing the clear glazing panels. Don’t worry if any the edges of the paint are a little fuzzy.

18

As the glazing was now spotless, Tamiya Rubber Black was sprayed lightly over the roof again to blend them more effectively into the overall appearance. Keep the can away from the surface to achieve a diffuse spray pattern.