STEP BY STEP

1

Study the instructions and read them through first to understand the flow of construction. Refer to the excellent diagrams and get some good images of your chosen subject.

2

Start with the footplate. Whitemetal may feel sturdy but it’s actually quite flexible so treat the component carefully, as it might bend. Lightly file the casting pips away.

3

Where the casting pips are across two levels, it will need additional work to file them away. Start with a coarse file before moving to a fine one and be sure not to leave behind any tool marks.

4

Once you’ve finished filing all the parts, run a ruler or square over them to check they are straight and true. Any bends need to be carefully straightened out.

5

This is why this kit is ideal for a first-timer – slot and tab construction! Clear the holes with a suitable drill bit and file the tabs, making sure they fit snugly into the slots.

6

In order to ensure the soldered joint is good, apply flux to both sides of the joint and run the soldering iron along it; you’ll see the solder seep through, giving a fine silver line.

7

With free-standing parts, such as the bufferbeams, use a hair grip to hold the part precisely in place. Adjust the part for the right fit and, when satisfied, solder in place.

8

Always start soldering at one end. Apply solder, then flux and draw any excess solder along. Re-flux and add more solder until the joint is complete. There’ll be less solder to clean away.

9

With both sides, the tank ends and the bunker in place, you have a good solid base on which to continue working, adding the various parts according to the kit’s instructions.

10

Assemble the smokebox, door and chimney as a separate unit and then solder it to the main body. Use a file positioned in the chimney to align the parts exactly.

11

Give the body a good scrub with warm soapy water. When dry, paint the body (either spray can or by hand) with the main body colour, in this case GER blue.

12

Once the blue paint was dry, the footplate, smokebox and chimney can be brush-painted black. Paint the bufferbeams and coupling rods red.

13

Turning now to the chassis, the brass etches need to be cut out with metal snips or a sharp blade. Remove the pips with a file, taking care not to distort any of the components.

14

Bend up the frame spacers and lay them out in the correct order. Attach turned brass spacers and hold in position with screws. Add extra brass spacers and screw the second frame in place.

15

Use drill bits or suitable metal rods through the axle holes to make sure they are all square and aligned. When happy, start to solder all the components in the chassis.

16

Next, assemble the etched nickel silver gearbox and secure the DS10 motor to it. Check it runs freely, then offer it up to the chassis. File any bearings so the fit is good.

17

Assemble the brake blocks to the hangers while still in the fret. Solder wire in place to support brake hangers – then it’s off to the paint shop after masking wheel rim treads.

18

Cut out, clean and glue the weights to the wheels. Paint the chassis and wheels (carefully mask the wheel treads). When dry, add phosphor bronze pick-ups to rub on the wheel backs.

19

The body was lined out with a bow pen and red paint. Bufferheads, smokebox door hinges and cab sand rails were painted silver. Add transfers and then varnish.

20 ‘J69’ No. 68919 all ready to take up station pilot duties at Liverpool Street! Still to be fitted are the vacuum pipes, lamp irons and lamps.