Masterclass
STEP BY STEP
1 A centreheadcode Bachmann Class 45 would provide the chassis and one nose end, while a Class 44 bodyshell was obtained cheaply. The PH Designs conversion set includes new grilles and nameplates for 44009/10.
2
Having stripped the bodyshell of glazing and handrails, the first job is to flatten the side grilles on the ‘44’ bodyshell using a broad, flat file. Take care not to damage other raised detail, such as the cantrail gutter strip.
3
Once the file has removed most of the material, a scraper tool will help to level the surface (see panel, top right). Finish the job with abrasive sticks, working from coarse to extra fine grades until the plastic is smooth and blemish free.
4
Using the outside edge of the nose side grille as a guide, begin cutting away the No. 1 end nose (the end with the radiator fan) with a razor saw. Cut gradually along one side to start with, working a millimetre or so on the waste side.
5
Repeat on the other side of the nose and, when each cut is about a centimetre deep, turn the body onto its roof and use both cuts to guide the blade as you cut all the way through to the bonnet.
6
The same process is used on the Class 45 nose, although I used the inside edge of the grille, leaving about a millimetre of waste on the nose. Again, work on both sides initially, then use the slots to guide the blade on its final cut.
7
The broad flat file is then used to remove waste material from the body and the new nose. Check that the mating faces are square and true with a setsquare as you go. A wide sanding stick then cleans up the edges, ready for bonding.
8
Before fixing the new nose in place, use a profile cutting tool to add the missing seam. Thick vinyl tape provides a handy cutting guide. The seam also needed to be cut on the ‘44’s’ other end, either side of the gangway doors.
9
After a few trial runs to check for a perfect fit, the new nose end was secured with liquid poly cement and clamped with masking tape. A little plastic filler was applied over the bonnet top to help achieve a seamless finish.
10
Allow the glue and filler to cure overnight before sanding the joint with successive grades of abrasive until the surface is smooth. I also cut and sanded away the moulded handrails and upper lamp bracket from this end.
11
The boiler compartment rooftop was plated over with 5thou’ plastic card, having filed away the raised exhaust port. I cut blanking plates for the access steps from the same material and fixed them in place with liquid poly cement.
12
After cutting the grilles from the etched fret, tidy up the edges very carefully with a fine needle file, to remove any remaining burrs. Note that there’s a profiled edge on one side – the outer facing side – of each section.
13
With a setsquare and sharp pencil, mark out the location of each grille, using the traces of the original mouldings as a guide. These pencil lines will help when fixing the new parts in place.
14
I realised that parts of the old grilles would not be covered by the new parts, so I filled and sanded these areas. In hindsight, I wish I’d filled all of the remaining grille detail, as it would prove troublesome later.
15
After a trial run, place the grilles onto a strip of low tack masking tape and apply a very thin bead of cyanoacrylate glue to the rear edges. I used a precision applicator tip for neatness.
16
Using the pencil lines added earlier, place the grille in position and clamp with the masking tape. Either wipe away any glue that squeezes out immediately or allow it to harden and file it away later.
17
I also popped the bulky moulded roof fan grille out from the bodyshell and replaced it with an etched brass item from the Extreme Etchings/ Shawplan range. This just needed rolling to a suitable profile (see page 91).
18
The nose ends were also treated to a detail upgrade, replacing the moulded handrails with brass wire, shaped with round-nose pliers and fixed into drilled holes. I also crafted a new lamp bracket from a scrap of brass fret.
19
The nameplates were painted the same colour as the bodywork, so I decided to fit the etched ’plates now. Both Snowdon and Tryfan names are provided with the PH Designs conversion kit. Again, just a tiny drop of cyano did the trick.
20
After removing the masking tape clamps, the bodyshell was given a thorough clean prior to priming and painting. I replaced the buffers with some brass units, plus some superior brake hoses and dummy screw couplings.