HOW TO: CREATE REALISTIC PAVEMENTS

Do you have any easy-to-follow tips for creating realistic pavements and kerbs? I want to model traditional paving slabs, rather than the Tarmac-style pavements of more recent times.

Trevor Buck, by email

George says: There’s a wealth of choice in terms of ready-to-lay paving sections, from the likes of Superquick, Metcalfe and Scale Model Scenery. These simply need cutting to size and fixing in place, although the Superquick paper sheets do need to be laminated with card in order to stand proud of the roadway.

I’m rather partial to the Wills plastic pavement sections, having used them on countless layouts and dioramas over the years. Featuring a York style of paving, with kerb stones and rectangular slabs, the packs include straight and corner sections. They’re easy to cut and shape, although the straight sections aren’t so great for dealing with curvy roadsides! I do find it easier to achieve neat joints between sections though, and the plastic doesn’t tear or delaminate if figures or road furniture are accidentally broken off. What’s more, I often find that I can pull up and re-use the paving sections if dismantling a layout – something that’s almost impossible if using card or paper-based options.

The Wills paving does need to be painted and weathered after installation, but this provides an opportunity to choose colours and shades to match a particular locality. And finishing things off with grids and manhole covers, which are also available from various suppliers, adds an extra level of realism.

A realistic pavement should be understated but convincing and George finds the Wills York paving packs are effective. GEORGE DENT

The use of the abrasives earlier will provide enough of a ‘key’ for paints to adhere without the need for a primer. After building up a few base layers, the paving can be weathered with washes of darker colours. 5

For gentle curves, the straight sections can be cut into shorter lengths and, when the glue has cured, any gaps can be filled with putty. A regular plastic-friendly model filler will suffice, left to cure completely. 3

This set of etched manhole covers and grids, from 51L Models, was sprayed with aerosol primer before cutting out the individual parts. They can then be fixed in place with cyano glue and weathered in situ. 6

Sand down the hardened filler to leave a flush surface (wear a mask!), then brush or vacuum away the debris. A dental pick or scribing tool can then be employed to reinstate the pointing between the slabs. 4

Wills Victorian stone pavement packs are simple to use and pretty cheap. They’re best suited to straight streets, but can be cut and joined easily enough with a stout knife. 1

Having cut the sections to the desired size, they can be fixed to the layout with contact adhesive. Wipe away any excess glue that may be squeezed out from the joints. 2