Enhancing die-cast cars
Q: I’m looking to improve the look of die-cast cars. I want to reduce their shininess and make them look at home on my layout, without wishing them to look dirty.
Trevor Carey, Whitstable
A: George says: This is something of a perennial question, as the proliferation of die-cast road vehicles for ‘N’, ‘OO’ and ‘O’ has been a real boon for modellers in the past few decades. Their high gloss paintwork does stand out, however, but it can be toned down simply by applying a satin or matt varnish.
The clear coat is best sprayed from an aerosol or airbrush, to produce an even finish. Some preparation is required though, including cleaning the surface of any debris or fingerprints. Unless the model can be dismantled, the glazing will need to be masked off.
Once the clear coat has been applied and left to harden completely, a dark weathering wash can be run into the panel seams and other recesses, to increase the definition in the surface relief. Tidying up any excess with a cotton swab dipped in thinners will keep the bodywork appearing clean. The shade of weathering wash can be tailored according to the underlying colour – the darker the ‘livery’, the darker the wash will have to be. Acrylic or enamel washes are suitable, although I prefer enamel washes as their slower drying time allows for easier manipulation and tidying up.
If you do feel the need to add a little road dirt to the tyres or bodywork, Tamiya’s Weathering Master packs are perfect for the job. The supplied applicator sponge and brush allow the pigments to be subtly deposited, while the satin or matt clear coat will aid adhesion. Indeed, matt varnish will greatly increase the adhesion factor of any weathering paints, pigments or powders.
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Some die-cast road vehicles can be dismantled easily, but others are riveted together. If in doubt, mask the glazing in situ before spraying the varnish. Masking fluid is an easy option, applied with a brush or cocktail stick.
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Allow the clear coat to cure fully before applying a weathering wash (thoroughly shaken beforehand) to the panel seams with a fine brush. For rich colours such as red, blue and green, choose a darker wash shade.
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The thin wash should find its own way along the recessed seams and dabbing the brush at intervals should help it flow. If any excess gets on the bodywork, wipe it away with a cotton swab moistened with thinners.
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For a paler bodywork colour, there’s no need for such a dark wash shade, so a lighter Neutral wash can be very effective, providing a subtle shading to the recesses. Apply it in the same way, swabbing away any excess if necessary.
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As well as panel seams, it also helps to apply the weathering wash to the wheel rims, radiator grilles or other areas with recessed detail. Set the model aside overnight to allow the wash to dry completely.
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Masking fluid dries to a film, which can be peeled away. Loosen a corner with a cocktail stick, then peel the film away, taking care not to scratch the plastic. Don’t leave the mask in place for more than a few days.
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If a little weathering is desired, dry pigments or Tamiya’s Weathering Master packs are ideal. Dusting the pigment over the tyres and the lower edges of the bodywork can impart a subtle coating of road dirt.