CLASS 69 IN ‘OO’ GAUGE
STEP BY STEP
1 We start with the Hornby Class 56. There are two versions: the older, cheaper version is a prime candidate for conversion. But, if you want DCC gizmos, the premium version is a must, although it’s nearly double the price.
2 Remove the chassis and the cab interiors, plus the glazing and all handrails, placing the small bits in a bag. Start removing the moulded detail on the cab fronts, using a craft knife, taking small bites at a time.
3 Then, with a coarse file, take off the remaining detail until you’re flush with the surface. Move to a finer file to remove the tool marks, eventually finishing off with wet-and-dry paper wrapped around a small wooden block.
4 The holes will need to be filled with putty (see Know Your Stuff, page 74). When this has cured, the surfaces can be smoothed down. It may be necessary to add more filler and re-abrade, until the surface is perfect.
5 With a razor saw, make a cut behind the cab roof, not right up against the bulkhead, but a millimetre or two away – enough to allow for the edges to be made good later and to prevent the removal of too much material too soon.
6 Here, I’ve used a slitting disc to cut along the edge of the roof line. Again, I’m working a few millimetres onto the ‘waste’ side of the line. Alternatively, drill a row of holes close to the line and cut away the waste with a stout knife.
7 Using a coarse file initially, file away the rough edge to the top of the body, making sure it is straight and true. Follow this with a finer file to create a smoother edge.
8 With the back of the cabs now open, a bulkhead needs to be added. I used plastic card, cut and filed to shape, then glued in place. When the glue has set, fill and sand any gaps to create a smooth finish.
9 These are Simon Brooking’s 3D-printed parts for the Class 69 contained roof panels, front light clusters and chassis tanks. Some parts require the resin supports to be carefully cut away with a fresh scalpel blade.
10 I use a thin covering of UHU along the inside top of the bodyside and the base of the roof panels, plus a spot of cyano on the corners, which can be ‘zapped’ with an accelerator once the part is in place, creating an instant bond.
11 With the replacement roof panels in position, extra cyano glue (preferably a slightly thicker formula) can be added from the inside to fill any gaps. Again, an accelerator was used to ensure a rapid bond.
12 The replacement 3D-printed lamp units and central headlight also need to be glued in position, taking care to get everything aligned. I left the multiple working socket until later, as it will get in the way of the ‘whisker’ decal!
13 A major addition to one of the body sides is a new grille. Here I have used some leftover grilles from the spares box. Never throw anything away, you just never know when you’ll need it The grille was secured with cyano glue.
14 With all of the new parts in position, give the model a few coats of filler primer via an aerosol – Halfords’ formula is recommended. Rub down any imperfections, if necessary, then spray the cab fronts Warning Panel Yellow.
15 Let the yellow cabs harden fully before masking them off with tape. The GBRF mustard was then sprayed, followed by GBRF blue. I used paints from Rainbow Railways (Tel: 07879 511403), which are superb and give excellent coverage.
16 Using a ruler and a mapping pen, I drew on the cant rail stripe along the top of the cab front and body side. When this was dry, the whole body received a few coats of clear gloss varnish, as a prelude to the transfers.
17 Once again, John Peck of Precision Labels worked his magic on these custom transfers, producing an excellent set for Mayflower, complete with metal-effect nameplates and ‘cat whiskers’ for the cab fronts.
18 Highlighting the blend of UK and US engineering, the relevant flags straddle the Mayflower nameplate and with the whiskers bringing relief to the otherwise austere ends; it’s a very striking livery. Well done Mr Tiller!
19 As well as parts for the bodyshell, Simon also 3D-printed some tank sides to fit to the chassis. Measure the width and slice off the required amount of material from the old tank sides before glueing the new parts in place.
20 After final reassembly, the finished ‘OO’ gauge model is ready! Sod’s Law dictated that the real 69001 would emerge with the flags applied in reverse order, so I ordered a set of modified decals, which have subsequently been applied.