STEP BY STEP

HARDER & STEENBECK

1

Fix the track in place. The track can be painted if desired. Using Chris Nevard’s technique, I applied light layers of red oxide, black and khaki aerosol paints (wearing a mask).

2

Allow the paint to dry before spooning the ballast over the track. I like to decant the ballast from the bag into a tub to minimise spillage. Sprinkle the material between the sleepers and along each outer edge of the rails.

3

Use a flat brush to distribute the ballast evenly around the sleepers, so that it sits at a uniform depth and covers the plastic webbing beneath the rails. This stage takes a little time, so work on short sections at a time.

4

When happy with the arrangement of the ballast, the glue can be applied. I tried pouring it straight from the bottle at first, but the flow of the thin glue was tricky to control and I made a bit of a mess.

5

Instead, I loaded the glue into a plastic syringe, which allowed for greater control. The glue penetrates the loose ballast easily. Flood the gap between each sleeper and allow the fluid to work through the chippings.

6

In a matter of seconds, the milky glue will seep into the ballast. If any areas remain dry-looking, add a little extra glue. Continue with this approach and then repeat the same process along each outer edge.

7

There’s plenty of time to make any adjustments if the ballast is disturbed by the glue or the syringe tip. I had little cause to intervene, save for a few areas, which were tamped down lightly with the handle of a paintbrush.

8

I like to apply a finer grade of ballast to the shoulders of the track formation, so ‘N’ gauge branded chippings are being applied here, contrasting nicely with the ‘OO’ bag of ballast used around the sleepers.

9

Again, the Geoscenics glue was applied with the syringe. With the syringe tip just above the surface, I ran the glue along the upper edge and allowed gravity and capillary action to let it seep down through the loose material.

10

The glue is great at penetrating the ballast chippings without disturbing them, even if applied in generous amounts. And yet it’s thick enough not to run off down the sides of this embankment!

11

After an overnight rest, the glue had set just enough to allow work to continue. Before starting on the greenery, I cleaned the heads of the rails with a track rubber. The ballast will need a couple of days to harden completely.