STEP BY STEP

1

Lifecolor UA225 Light Stone 61 was applied to the interior and exterior walls, with a flat brush, while Lifecolor UA702 Rust Base Color provided the contrasting shade. Both colours required two coats to build up an opaque finish.

2

Instead of paint, I treated the interior floorboards with enamel-based weathering washes, using a few different shades diluted with thinners. Wood dye could also be used. Varying the shades highlights the plank detail.

3

When the paint had dried, the parts were cut from the frets with a heavy-duty knife. Work on a cutting mat to absorb the pressure and protect the blade. Cutting gradually from both sides produces a neater edge.

4

Any raised burrs on the edges of the parts were flattened with a file and sanding sticks. This will ensure that the parts slot together nicely. It also removes any carbon deposits left by the laser, thus improving adhesion for the glue.

5

Fit the front and side walls around the upper floor, holding the parts together for a minute while the glue ‘grabs’ the parts. Check with a setsquare. I didn’t glue the base yet, using it to keep the structure square, helped by clamps.

6

Allow each wall to dry for an hour before adding the next element. The rear wall was then added, removing the base to allow access for the magnetic corner clamps. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cotton swab.

7

In the most part, the corner joints sat together cleanly, but a slight bowing to the front and rear walls had to be corrected with mini ratchet sash clamps. Once tightened enough to bring the parts together, the assembly was left to cure.

8

After adding the porch, the pre-cut glazing panels were fixed to the window frames with a fine bead of Glue ‘n’ Glaze adhesive. When dry, the windows were glued to the walls. The base could then be secured in place.

9

The framework overlays came next, with the glue applied sparingly to the inner face. The side overlays were added first, followed by the front and rear wall framework, which overlapped the sides at each corner.

10

A few thin gaps were formed at the corners, but these were easily filled with putty when the glue had dried. When the filler had cured, the corners were tidied with a file and sanding sticks before the paintwork was touched up.

11

The kit includes some interior detail, including an 11-lever frame, token and block instruments, a wall clock, pot-bellied stove and a signaller figure. Once assembled, they were painted in appropriate colours prior to installation.

12

With the interior details installed, the rafters were placed in position, followed by the block instrument shelf. Other details could be added, such as a chair, ledger desk, tea caddy and a track layout plan.

13

I tacked the roof in place with a small blob of Glue ‘n’ Glaze at each corner. This adhesive dries to a flexible film, which can be broken easily should I need access in future. When the glue had set, the roof was painted and weathered.

14

The staircase is made up of individual treads which slot into the riser frames. They were a snug fit into the slots, so just a tiny amount of glue was required. Add the other riser and check that all is square before leaving to dry.

15

When the glue had cured, the outer faces of each riser were abraded lightly to ensure the tabs were flush and any glue deposits removed. The handrails could then be installed and, when complete, the paintwork was tidied up.

16

Plastic rod is provided for the handrails, the holes for which are pre-formed into the walls. With these in place – plus the gutter downpipes – the staircase could then be installed and the nameboard added.

The grain texture of the wood components shows through the paintwork, creating a truly authentic appearance. The finished structure is rugged and there’s plenty of scope for further interior and exterior detailing.