Under Moroccan sun
Riding in Morocco makes for a perfect winter break
In late October I was sipping my coffee and admiring the views of sun-baked mountains, twisty roads and indigo-blue sky at the top of the Tizi n’Test pass in the High Atlas Mountains.
I could tell you about how I’d started my day with a swim in the hotel pool, ridden some fantastic twisty mountain roads, stuffed my face with a delicious lunch and now rewarded myself for my hard work with a coffee in the sun. I could also mention the kids by the roadside waving and fishing for a high five, making you feel like biking royalty. Or the camels by the side of the road, the colourful textiles and ceramics on offer at market stalls, intoxicating smells of spices and fresh food from restaurants, and the smiling locals going about their daily lives dressed like they were all extras in the next Star Wars film. The list goes on. But all of that is just an additional bonus on top of great winter riding in a warm and sunny location with delightful roads, intriguing culture, spectacular scenery and welcoming locals.
Into the unknown
The reason I was in Morocco was because I had signed up for the Wheels of Morocco’s Long Weekend tour to get a taste of riding in this intriguing country. Joining me on the tour were seven other adventurers, each of us perched on a new BMW GS (Mine was an 850, but some had opted for the big twins, too).
The first part of our tour took us from the flatlands of Marrakesh (it really is as flat as a pancake) over the High Atlas Mountains and back down on the other side where we’d reach the town of Taroudant for the night.
The highlight of the first day’s riding for me was the Tizi n’Test pass where my rambling story began. At 2093 metres, the top of the pass offers fantastic views on both sides of the mountain range, and as the cherry on the cake, there’s a café at the top where you can relax, take a breather from riding and congratulate yourself for having come here.
From the top of the pass the road turns into a veritable race track with hairpins and switchbacks dotted along the recently surfaced route that looks like a ribbon laid on the mountain side. Riding fast is not compulsory, but it is very tempting.
Leaving the mountain behind us, we were in the lowlands again. We entered the town of Taroudant through gates in the old city wall, zigzagged our way past pedestrians, mopeds and bicycles, and reached our hotel. Time to eat, sleep and repeat.
Hollywood(ish)
The second day of riding took us to Ait Benhaddou, a UNESCO World Heritage site with a well restored Kasbah. It has been used as the set of several blockbuster films, none of which I have seen, but will have to watch now just to spot the location.
It felt odd to be in a tourist hotspot again after spending last night and most of today off the beaten track. You had to get your ‘No thanks’ and ‘I’ve already got one’ replies ready as the offers for everything from scarves to jewellery started ringing in your ears.
On the last day of riding we crossed the High Atlas again. This time the route went through the Tizi n’Tichka pass with its highest point at 2260 metres. It’s a busier road than the ‘Test pass, but it’s also wider so you don’t have to wait long until overtaking opportunities present themselves.
Clearing the pass, we started our decent back to Marrakesh, and the end of the three-day tour. It had been a great introduction into riding in Morocco, but a part of me wished that I had just a couple more days to explore the country and enjoy the quiet, twisty roads.
The tour offered fantastic roads, bikes well suited for the purpose, fascinating culture, good food and a relaxed approach to touring that allowed everyone to enjoy the trip. On top of that we had expert guidance from the tour leaders who know the local life, customs and languages.
With the taster now done, I’m hungry for a bigger bite of Morocco.