Leaving lockdown
The essentialguideto getting back on the road- for bikeand rider
Here's all you need to know about getting yourself and your bike ready for riding again.
Few predicted that a virus which started in China would bring the world to a standstill. Even Steven Spielberg or Stephen King couldn't have written the script to the first half of 2020. For many of us, this has meant months without our two-wheeled kicks, for some even longer. I know many of you will have packed your pride and joy away for winter towards the end of last year as the dark nights started to draw in, and had no intention of riding again until summer of 2020, or at least until the clocks sprang forward. This could mean up to six months without riding or your bike ever turning a wheel.
Hopefully, before lockdown you didn't ride it into the garage, flick down the side stand, and walk away like a GP star. If you did, the battery will now be flat and the brakes might be seized. Before you wake your bike from hibernation and squeeze into your tight leathers (let's be honest, they will be tight after all the lockdown snacking), take a moment and read our checklist.
THE BIKE
BATTERY: Hopefully, you fitted a battery charger that manages charge levels and keeps your battery in peak condition. If not, your battery might be flat, especially if your bike is fitted with an alarm. If you've not done so, check if your bike actually fires up. The last thing you want to do is get ready for your first ride out, only to discover it won't start.
TYRES: Did you over-inflate the tyres before storing, which prevents any damage to the carcass and sidewalls. If so, now we need to re-adjust the pressures to recommended settings. If you're unsure of these, see your owner's manual or ask your dealer. Most dealers are still answering their phones and will be happy to assist. We spoke to Garry Hartshorne from Bridgestone UK for some advice.
"Ideally, you've stored your bike on paddock stands, or on the centre stand, as even the cold floor can affect the tyre. Every month a tyre can lose 1 to 1.Spsi, so if your bike has been stood for some time your pressures may have dropped from 42psi to 33 or lower. Worst-case scenario is you've got completely flat tyres with crushed sidewalls. The damage depends on how long the tyre has been flat, and if it's the front or rear,
and the weight of your bike. Once inflated you need to inspect the sidewalls and look for damage. But the only real way to make sure they are 100% is to remove the tyre and check for inner sidewall for damage, which for many will have to be done at a dealer:'
BRAKES: You should have rotated your wheel every few weeks to prevent the brake pads from sticking. If they feel stuck, gently rock the bike forwards and backwards to release the pads. Tapping the calipers gently with a soft hammer can also help release stuck pads. If they remain stuck you may have to remove the calipers for a service and clean.
ANY LEAKAGES?:
Check under the bike (and in the belly pan) for any leaking oil or coolant. You may well have checked the coolant level before storage, so if it's dropped dramatically ask yourself why.
CLEANING:
You might have given your bike a deep clean before hibernation, and it might be immaculate and ready to go, but still take a moment and give it a once-over. This is when you might spot something you've missed previously, such as a loose exhaust bracket, a missing fairing bolt, etc. You've probably not looked at your bike for a few months; fresh eyes can reveal hidden gremlins. Have the kids scratched the bodywork when getting their bikes out of the garage without telling you?
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS:
With the rear wheel off the ground, turn the back wheel by hand and check the chain for any noticeable wear. Are there any tight spots? Do the sprockets look healthy? Add some chain lube if necessary.
BEFORE START-UP:
The first job, and sometimes forgotten: open the garage door and windows, or better yet, get the bike outside. The start-up procedure will depend on how long your bike has been stood, and if it's fuel-injected or carburetted? If your bike has been stood for a long period of time without a start,
I'd consider draining the fuel tank, pipe and fuel filter, and adding fresh fuel. And if you're still on carbs, it's worth draining the float bowls. I know this might not be for everyone, slightly technical, but it's worth doing. If your bike is fuel-injected, replacing the fuel in the tank should be enough. Also, if you drained the coolant, make sure you top it back up again.
START YOUR ENGINES:
Don't twist the throttle, use the manual choke (if fitted), and switch the fuel back on if you have a fuel tap. Then simply allow the starter motor to turn the engine and it should start within a few seconds. Don't let the starter motor run for more than five seconds, as this can damage it. Once the engine fires up, simply let it warm up naturally. You don't jump out of bed and go straight into a 100m sprint, so don't be tempted to blip the throttle, no matter how excited you are or how good it sounds. If you're using a cloth to drown the noise of the exhaust, make sure it's fresh and not covered in fuel!
KEEP IT RUNNING:
Simply allow the engine temperature to rise naturally as the bike ticks over. Don't rev it, she's only just woken up after a deep sleep. As the temperature rises, listen for misfires and check everything: lights, indicators, horn, etc. Has moisture crept in and blown a bulb? I'd recommend letting the engine warm up until the thermostat activates the fan for the radiator. If you have an air-cooled bike, let it run until you can feel the warmth from the engine.
TEST RIDE:
You don't want to be embarking on a mammoth trip. A gentle ride around the block is more than enough. Remember, you'll be rusty too, so take it steady. Try both the front and back brakes, and go up and down the gearbox to check everything is working as it should. Like before, get the engine, brakes and tyres up to temperature.
BACK IN FOR A CHECK:
After your first run, again take the time to give your bike a once-over. Is the coolant level correct, does the chain look okay, has anything vibrated loose? So many of us have used the lockdown to work on our bikes, so if you have removed bodywork for a deep clean of added bolt-on parts like a new exhaust or luggage, make sure they're all still tight. Check again: is anything leaking? Also check the brakes again: is one front disc hotter than the other? If so it might be sticking slightly. If they are too hot to touch, and you've only had a steady ride, they may be sticking/binding. If you're happy, then you're free to start biking again. But remember you're rusty, too.
THE RIDER
GET YOURSELF BACK TO INTO RIDING AFTER LOCKDOWN: If
It's been an unprecedented time during lockdown, and for many this has meant no bike time. you're lucky you might have got out just before lockdown, which still means it's been weeks since you last got your two-wheel fix.But, for those who didn't predict the world would come to a temporary halt, you may not have even ridden this year, as you stored your bike over winter and was waiting for Spring to arrive - which it did during lockdown, sorry. This could mean it's potentially been months since your last ride.
You wouldn't take a four-month break from running and expect to hit a personal best on your first day back. It's the same with most activities; if you don't practise, your game drops. I used to be a demon at darts in my misspent youth, now I'm lucky if I hit the board.
Riding a motorbike is a physical and mental challenge, and as you've not ridden for a while during lockdown it's going to take a while to get 'back up to speed'. While your bike has been stored snugly under a blanket and cleaned meticulously due to boredom, you may well have lost a slight edge. Sorry, your leathers haven't shrunk ... yes, you did eat too much during lockdown ... and that one cycle ride doesn't count as regular exercise. Your physical size might not be the only difference between now and the end of last summer. Check out our simple guide before getting back on to the saddle.
SPEED:
You've probably only driven a car or van for the last few months and that was at low speed, just to town to join the queue outside Tesco. Now your bike is going to feel like a rocket ship in comparison - take it steady. It's so easy to get carried away in the first few miles of leaving home. Statistically, many accidents happen at the start of the biking season for that reason, going too fast too soon. If your bike is fitted with rider modes, opt for a softer mode before embarking on your first ride of the year. Additionally, if your bike has traction control, add a little - better to be safe than sorry.
TRACTION:
You've not had to calculate grip levels or look for diesel or oil on the road for the last few months; wet or dry, most modern cars perform equally. Now you must think about the changeable conditions, plus the amount of grip different road surfaces offer. Stopping distances will have changed, and remember you might be approaching corners and junctions much quicker than before. Grip levels may also have been affected as the amount of traffic has declined.
INSTINCTS:
You've spent the last eight weeks watching TV and trying to home school, so your natural instincts may have slowed down. Last year you could smell a diesel spill at half-a-mile and could almost see around corners - 'I somehow knew there was a tractor over that crest: you'd say.Now those powers have dimmed, meaning that ability to spot blind drivers or dangerous boy racers isn't as sharp as it was.
YES, YOU SHOULD WARM UP:
This might seem a little over the top, especially if you're about to ride a conventional and comfortable bike, but it all helps. I've pulled a groin muscle trying to get my leg over a tall adventure bike. And after my first enduro race of the year I could hardly move. After a long layoff it even feels like hard work getting back into your bike kit.
YOU'RE GOING TO NEED TO MOVE:
Your body position dramatically affects your bike's handling, especially on a sportsbike. Remember to move. Leaning off the inside of the bike pushes the bike upright on to the fatter section of tyre. For the last few weeks it's possible that you've only moved from the sofa to the fridge.
REMEMBER IT GETS COLD:
You might have been sat in the garden enjoying the sun during lockdown and forgotten how cold it can get on a bike, especially at night. Don't forget to layer up and stay warm.
ROADS MAY HAVE CHANGED:
The roads you ride for fun are more than likely not your commute to work so you might not have ridden your favourite road for a few months. They might be miles away from home, therefore don't expect them to be the same as when you last visited. That lovely series of bends which are always grippy and fun might now have a roundabout or a new T-junction. Your favourite humpback bridge might have a sharp bend straight after it now, or a junction leading into a new housing development. So treat the road as if it's new. During lockdown roads have been maintained, resurfaced - the world hasn't stood still.
DON'T GET NICKED:
Even if your favourite Sunday route is the same, the local police may have added a nice surprise for you. Speed cameras can pop up over winter, even in lockdown. Or have they worked out it's a popular route for bikes and are now patrolling the section with an unmarked bike? Equally, the picturesque village where you always stop for a coffee could now be in a 30mph zone, not the old 40mph zone. I was caught out by a 'new' speed camera on one of my favourite roads a few years back - it was a costly mistake. In cities, check old, unused cameras haven't been fixed or an average speed zone hasn't been installed. Again, you've only been within five miles of home for the last few months, and not had to worry about the Police or speed cameras, so stay vigilant.
I CAN SEECLEARLYNOW: Spring has sprung, Summer is with us and everything is growing rapidly. The last time you rode might have been Autumn or early Spring; now trees create a huge canopy of leaves, you can no longer see over or through hedges as they're now thick and dense. You'll be surprised by how much the countryside has changed. Enjoy the views and scenery, and take it steady.
DIRTY ROADS:As
traffic starts to build up after lockdown, roads too, might be in an appalling condition. Hard frost could have broken up the road in sections. Road salt and other debris hangs around on unused sections, while loose stones will gather on the exit of roundabouts, on white lines, and in the gutter, so be careful when filtering. Equally, take care when overtaking because the central white line might not have been touched or swept clean by traffic for months.
LEAVEA GAP:
If you're going out for a ride with mates, leave a healthy gap between bikes. Stones, twigs and other debris can turn into bullets when
ABOVELEFT: Wasthat roundaboutalwaysthere? they're flicked off the tyre of the bike in front, fast enough to puncture radiators, and even break screens or fairings.
OTHERROADUSERS:You're
not the only one who hasn't been out of the house for the last few months and other road users are going to be venturing out for the first time, too. If you ride in remote areas, remember they've not had to see or calculate the speed of bikers recently. Farm traffic has ruled the roads recently, and tractor drivers are going to be startled by a bike heading towards them at speed. Famous biking hangouts have been empty too, while seaside resorts haven't seen groups of bikes parked up ... it's all going to feel a little strange at first.
ENJOY IT:
Nobody has a stopwatch on the road, you're not going to be as quick or smooth as you were, and this applies to all riding, on- and off-road, so take it steady. The NHS have been busy enough recently and the last thing they want is to see you in A&E with a mangled ankle because you've just dropped a GS on yourself.