DAY7
One hell of a day, 13 hours riding, numerous breakdowns and hiccups. Wake at 6.30am to minus six degrees and by 8.30 we're away around the lake. No track, just clumpy grass so high the bikes bottom out - one is dragged out after getting stuck, and three brake levers are damaged. We crack on for mile after mile through fabulous scenery, still unpopulated apart from the occasional yurts.
As we ride higher we cross the snow-line and the going changes to loose rocky shale, which is quite challenging and best tackled faster. These Enfields might have minor hiccups, but they soak up the punishment. If we stop for photos it's not unusual for a nomad to appear, just to shake hands and say hello. River crossings get more common and we barely slow down for them.