Fantastically Fizzy holidays in the Champagne region
Gillian Thornton travels east of Paris to the Champagne-Ardenne region and finds the top eight reasons it sparkles in any season
1 DRIVE THE CHAMPAGNE ROUTES
In 2015, UNESCO listed the Champagne Hillsides, Houses and Cellars as a World Heritage site and it’s easy to explore the different areas of vineyards. Follow the brown tourist signs labelled Route Touristique du Champagne and look out for the green Vignobles et Découvertes logo on more than 550 wine cellars, restaurants and accommodation, all offering quality experiences.
2 REIMS BY TRAIN
Reims is synonymous with champagne and the city is home to brands including Mumm, Lanson and Taittinger. Travel by train from London to Paris with Eurostar then take the 45-minute journey to Reims ( WWW.VOYAGES-SNCF.COM). I loved the cellar tour at Veuve Cliquot, then comparing sparkling vintages in the tasting room.
3 IN ROYAL FOOTSTEPS
Reims isn’t just about fizz. My base at the 4-star Hôtel de Paix was in walking distance of the magnificent cathedral where 25 French kings were crowned. Admire its fabulous stained glass from the Middle Ages to Chagall, and tour the treasures of the former bishop’s residence of Palais du Tau. Visit the rich Fine Arts Museum which includes 25 paintings by Corot, or simply browse the tempting specialist boutiques with the free shopping guide.
4 DESIGNER BARGAINS
A thriving textile town in the Middle Ages, Troyes is still known for its clothing manufacturers. Lacoste’s green crocodile logo was first embroidered on polo shirts here in 1933! Those with an eye for a designer bargain must head to the Marques Avenue outlet centre, whilst Marques City and McArthur Glen offer high street brands at budget prices.
5 CAPITAL OF CHAMPAGNE
Strolling down Epernay’s Avenue de Champagne is like walking through an upmarket wine list, with names like Perrier-Jouët, Moët & Chandon, and of course Dom Perignon, the priest and cellar-master who started the whole industry.
6 REGION OF CONTRASTS
Recently incorporated into France’s new Grand Est region, Champagne-Ardennes stretches from the Belgian border in the north to the outskirts of Burgundy in the south. Walk or cycle through the lush forests and river valleys of the Ardennes, visit moving Remembrance sites from two World Wars and relax or get active around the picturesque Great Lakes. Eat out in anything from atmospheric cafés to gourmet restaurants.
7 ARTISTIC INSPIRATION
Pierre-Auguste Renoir married Aline Charigot, a young woman from the pretty village of Essoyes, south of Troyes. The artist fell in love with the landscape and from 1885, came here every summer with Aline and their three sons, buying a property in 1896. Visit the Renoir centre, his garden studio and – new from June 3 – the former family home.
8 MEDIEVAL MAGIC IN TROYES
With streets laid out in the shape of a champagne cork, Troyes boasts more timber-framed houses from the Middle Ages and Renaissance than anywhere else in France. Stroll beneath coloured façades, striped with timbers; wander down narrow alleys between ancient houses; and discover how these outstanding buildings were restored in the late 20th century. Don’t miss the church where Henry V married Catherine de Valois nor the modern art gallery, atmospherically displayed in the Bishop’s Palace beside the cathedral.