Escape To The Suffolk Coast Britain at its best
Gillian Thornton celebrates a special anniversary in an area full of picturesque attractions
Ask me to create my quintessential English village and I’d start with a small market square, fringe it with pretty cottages, and add a modest castle close to a river. I’d drop in a medieval church, add a small hotel, and sprinkle in a few specialist shops.
Does it all sound too good to be true? Then you haven’t been to Orford.
Sheltered from the sea by the shingle spit of Orford Ness, this historic Suffolk village was a bustling harbour in the
Middle Ages at the point where the river Alde morphs into the Or, south of Aldeburgh. Today, its quaint streets are still lined with a mix of fishermen’s cottages and grand houses that once belonged to clergy and merchants.
In summer, small boats ferry visitors to the nature reserve at Orford Ness, once a testing zone for secret weapons. And in the village centre, specialist food shops attract customers tired of high street chains.
So when travel restrictions forced my husband and me to abandon plans for a wedding anniversary celebration abroad, Orford proved a delightful alternative. We stayed at the tranquil Crown & Castle Hotel close to Orford’s medieval keep, all that remains of a 12th century castle commissioned by Henry II.
This southern section of the Suffolk coast has all the ingredients for a fun-filled staycation. A short drive north of Orford, Aldeburgh stands on a deep shingle beach, its long promenade lined with period properties. Adults can indulge in tours and tastings at the seafront Fishers Gin distillery, by the elegant Brudenell Hotel, but there’s plenty in this picturesque resort for families too. Don’t miss the Maltings arts centre across the marshes beside the winding river Alde. Established by composer Benjamin Britten in 1967, it offers tempting retail outlets, a gallery, and full concert programme.
Quirky Thorpeness, just up the coast, was built in the early 20th century as a holiday village complete with a boating
lake, promenade, and a wealth of unusual properties. Nearby Dunwich, in contrast, is a shadow of its former self, most of its buildings having been lost beneath the sea in storms during the Middle Ages.
A pretty drive from Orford also takes you north to Southwold, another period resort with a popular pier, historic Sailors’ Reading Room, and landmark lighthouse. Home to Adnams Brewery, this pretty town is also popular with both families and foodies.