Steeped In History Saffron Walden and the delights of East England
Karen Byrom explores the hidden gems of East England
Itook the chance last year to visit a part of the country I’ve always longed to explore – Cambridgeshire and its surrounding area. While the delights of Cambridge are many and varied, it was the smaller towns and villages that captured my imagination, none more than Saffron Walden, a medieval market town 15 miles south of the university town.
The place gets its name from the crocus fields that once surrounded it, though at this time of year you’re more likely to see daffodils on the Common on one of the many delightful walks you can take in and around the town. There’s the town trail itself, which guides you through its maze of charming streets past places of interest. There’s a museum full of fascinating artefacts from down the years, the ancient ruins of a Castle Keep and the towering presence of the Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin. I can never resist a peep inside a church, and this one is a particularly fine example of the stone-built medieval churches that dot the area. Dating back to the 13th century, it was mostly rebuilt in the 15th and 16th centuries, and is stunning both inside and out. Its beautiful stained glass windows bring warmth to its stone interior while the magnificent pipe organ fills it with glorious sound. There’s a really fine altar screen to admire, too, as you wander the aisles or sit and reflect on mankind’s determination to build a monument that’s stood the test of war, famine and plague down the centuries. It makes the Tudor-style buildings surrounding it look almost modern – but of course they’re authentic, as evidenced by their overhanging second storeys almost touching across the narrow alleys of the town centre.
History is not the only thing on offer, though – Saffron Walden is a centre to satisfy the heart of the most seasoned shopper, with boutiques, antique shops and gift shops galore, along with bakery stores filled with
tempting goodies and Hill St, the most amazing chocolatier shop. Visit on a Tuesday or Saturday to enjoy the bi-weekly market in Market Square – it’s been going since the 13th century, and locals flock to the artisan stalls selling everything from bread to garden plants and handcrafted goods for the home. Stop for a cuppa at one of the many independent cafes before making your way back to your car or hotel, and further delights in store.