WHERE TO EAT

Tender cheeks, sticky sauces and velvety mash abound in our list of the best places in Britain and France to try boeuf bourguignon

CASSE-CROÛTE, LONDON

This bijou Bermondsey bistro is permanently packed, thanks to its no-nonsense takes on Gallic classics such as rillettes, tarte tatin, and a superlative boeuf bourguignon, made with hunks of beef cheek and served on a sea of buttery pommes puree with a generous spoonful of gravy. It’s not always on the menu though, so check when you call to book — and booking is definitely necessary. cassecroute.co.uk

BRASSERIE ZÉDEL, LONDON

Right in the heart of Piccadilly, the vast Zédel has some of the finest 1930s interiors in London, and has earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its classic Parisian brasserie food. One of the best things on the menu is the boeuf bourguignon — described by restaurant critic Jay Rayner as a ‘deepflavoured, sticky stew’. Exactly as it ought to be. brasseriezedel.com

LA POPOTE, MARTON

A converted farmhouse in Cheshire may seem an unlikely place for fine French cooking, but La Popote has become a fixture in The Good Food Guide. There’s a new chef (a local lad fresh from a stint in Paris) in the kitchen, who uses shin for the bourguignon, which is served with sides of mash and red cabbage. la-popote.co.uk

L’ESCARGOT BLEU, EDINBURGH

The Scottish winner at the 2019 Slow Food in the UK Awards and lauded by Scottish chef Tom Kitchin, this little slice of France (pictured) has a distinctly local accent. The food, including a classic boeuf bourguignon, is all made with Scottish ingredients, including shorthorn and Highland beef and vegetables grown in the restaurant’s own walled garden on the outskirts of the city. lescargotbleu.co.uk

CAFE DU CENTRE, NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES

There are grander places to eat in the wealthy village of Nuits-saintgeorges, but almost certainly none that offer friendlier service or better value for money than this unassuming little cafe-bar. Sit outside if the weather’s fine, but don’t miss the fabulous boeuf bourguignon (generally available as part of the three-course set menu) or the carefully chosen wine list (Burgundy-centric, obviously). The cafe is usually open all day. brasserieducentre -nuits.com

CAFE DES MUSÉES, PARIS

After the French voted boeuf bourguignon their top national dish, Paris-based newspaper Le Figaro set out to find the best version in the capital. This was judged on presentation, tenderness, quantity, the cooking and flavour of the meat, consistency, the flavour of the sauce and the quality of garnishes — as well as value for money. The surprise winner was this traditional cafe in the Marais, which has — sacré bleu! — a team of Japanese chefs. lecafedesmusees.fr

CHEZ LÉON, DIJON

This little restaurant down a side street near Dijon’s historic centre is gloriously unpretentious, serving old-fashioned food including stuffed vol-auvents, crêpes suzette and arguably the best boeuf bourguignon in Burgundy.

It’s made with beef cheek and served with impossibly rich pommes puree and a crunchy, garlicky croute for dipping. Go in summer and choose from seats on the terrace, with views of the gardens opposite, or in the dark-beamed dining room with its retro decor. restochezleon.fr

LE BISTROT BOURGUIGNON, BEAUNE

A local institution for over 30 years, this is said to have been the first wine bar in Beaune, and has the photo-packed walls to prove it, as well as a 300-strong wine list. With comfy sofas and a jazz soundtrack, it’s a relaxed place to sit with a glass of something, but it’s great for lunch or dinner too, with a menu of regional classics including both boeuf bourguignon and its less meaty equivalent, oeufs en meurette.