National Geographic Traveller (UK) - Food
KADIKÖY
Grab a fresh simit, the ubiquitous sesame seedstudded bread ring sold at stands everywhere in Turkey, and join the commuters on the ferry. It will take you from Karaköy in Beyoğlu, on the European side, to the district of Kadıköy, over in Asia. And while aboard, order a tulipshaped glass of black tea — which actually has a seductive red hue — to enjoy with your simit.
The half-hour journey gives you the chance to see both sides of the city from the Bosphorus. While passing the ‘Historical Peninsula’, catch glimpses of some of the old city’s best-known attractions, such as the Hagia Sophia and the Topkapı Palace.
Disembark at the pier, a few minutes’ walk from Kadıköy proper. In recent years, this has become many locals’ favourite district, with an eye-popping number of bars and restaurants opening on what seems to be a daily basis. Many visitors don’t make it across to this side of the water, so it’s a great way of experiencing the energy of the city with the Istanbulites.
Head to the lovely residential area of Moda, in central Kadıköy, to visit Moda Coastal Park.
It’s a popular hangout during the warmer months, when young people come to sip beer, eat sunflower seeds and enjoy the view.
Stay in Moda to have lunch at Korkmaz Büfe,
a small restaurant with just a few tables, which serves arguably the best doner kebab in the city. So highly regarded is this spot that it runs out of its glorious spit-roasted meat, without fail, by late afternoon every day. Get there early and order it as sandwich in a half-loaf of fresh bread, or as a portion atop a bed of rice.
Come afternoon, explore the busy streets of Kadıköy, stopping off at Kadıköy Fish Market and the Rexx Cinema, one of the few-remaining old-school movie theatres in Istanbul, which screens the latest domestic and international films. It even has a terrace, should you fancy a breath of fresh air during the intermission that’s common during Turkish films.
Sit down for dinner in the heart of the district at Çiya, one of the city’s most famous restaurants. It’s helmed by Musa Dağdeviren, one of Turkey’s foremost food historians, who endeavours to preserve regionally specific recipes that are at risk of being forgotten.