14 HOURS IN MANILA

MORNING

Begin by renting a bamboo bike and exploring the walled city of Intramuros, Manila’s seat of government during Spanish colonial rule.

At its heart is Manila Cathedral, designed by Fernando Ocampo. Its pineapple finials are said to represent the death and rebirth of Christ but could apply to the structure itself: first built in 1571, it’s now in its eighth iteration after centuries of war and earthquakes. Pedal north west to

Fort Santiago, where Filipino national hero José Rizal — an activist during Spanish rule — was imprisoned before his execution. bambike.com

AFTERNOON

Have a lunch of Spanish-Filipino cuisine at Ilustrado. Its paella is given a Manileño twist with annatto (a condiment derived from the seeds of the achiote tree) and eggs. Spend the rest of the afternoon museum-hopping around Rizal Park. The collection of Indigenous artefacts at the National Museum of Anthropology includes Ifugao textiles, a Maranao musical instrument set and documents written in the Philippines’ pre-colonial alphabet. At the main hall of the National Museum of Fine Arts, you’ll find Juan Luna’s Spoliarium, considered one of the greatest paintings by a Filipino artist. facebook.com/ ilustradorestaurant nationalmuseum.gov.ph

EVENING

Cross the Pasig River to Binondo, the world’s oldest Chinatown, established in 1594. The Philippines’ Chinese settlers have influenced the national cuisine, resulting in dishes with a distinct fusion flavour. Head to Ongpin Mañosa to try three types of pancit (stir-fried noodles): bihon, canton and sotanghon, which indicate rice, wheat and glass noodles. Head on to Shanghai Fried Siopao for siopao (a sweeter take on xiaolongbao soup dumplings) and New Po Heng Lumpia House for lumpia (minced meat spring rolls). facebook.com/shanghaifriedsiopao

NIGHT

Leave Binondo after 9pm to avoid rush hour and grab a taxi to Makati, Manila’s glitzy business and party district. Alamat gastropub is the place to sample a rotating range of Filipino craft beers, along with pulutan (bar food) such as sisig (grilled pork jowl). A short walk away, follow up with cocktails at Run Rabbit Run, an Alice in Wonderland-themed bar that’s part industrial shipping container, part apothecary box. The bartenders use native ingredients such as calamansi juice, sampaguita flower extract and Don Papa rum, from Bacolod. instagram.com/alamatfilipinocuisine runrabbit.run

An aerial view of Manila’s skyline