RAISE A GLASS
EVERY year, around now, I ask you to think that sherry isn’t just for Christmas, and it’s that time again as International Sherry Week is upon us. I joined the celebrations a bit early by exploring a sherry with an air of mystique.
They say palo cortado sherry is based on a fluke of nature.
I didn’t need my arm twisting to try Harveys 30 Years VORS Palo Cortado (£26.14, 50cl, Master of Malt).
But first, a quick aside about the age statements on the Harveys’ sherry label. A sherry is created in a solera, which is a number of barrels, where young and old wines are blended together over several years. The term “VORS “means “very old rare sherry”; and the “30 years” on my bottle told me that the youngest wine in the blend is at least 30 years old – so the grapes in my glass of palo cortado grew a very long time ago.
They were plucked off the vines when we knew nothing of Harry Potter or social media or The Spice Girls. I always find that concept mind-blowing.
Back to the palo cortado style of sherry. The name means “cut stick”. When it began life, it would have started as a fino or an amontillado and the producer marked the barrel accordingly with a single stroke.
But for some reason the sherry didn’t develop as expected. And so another stroke was slashed on the barrel across the original one (creating the cut stick). The sherry then began another development journey.
The aromas in my glass thrill, with fruit cake, caramel and figs. A sip reveals a zest for life, a zing of sprightliness, despite its long ageing. Dried fruits and citrus play their joyful part.
I also sipped another sherry for you: Barbadillo Solear Manzanilla (RRP £11.19, 70cl, Waitrose, and £5.95, 37.5cl, The Wine Society).
This pale lemon manzanilla is from the coastal village of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It’s citrussy, salty, zingy, and yeasty. Its fresh notes are mouth-watering and even more delicious with a glisten of olives, artichokes and a twist of Iberico ham before dinner (or just because you can).
International Sherry Week runs from November 2-8 and this year is enhanced with online activities.
The secrets of palo cortado will be revealed online in the documentary The Mystery of Palo Cortado throughout #sherryweek. Other events include an “old versus new” sherry tasting and a global online sherry pairing dinner.
Go online to sherrywine. sherryweek to discover events near you or to sign up for webinars. Follow updates via Twitter @sherrywine; Instagram @sherrywinesjerez; and Sherry Wines on Youtube and Facebook. FINALLY… Hospitality Gin has been created to support the UK hospitality industry. Tom Lord, an industry veteran, teamed up with Cooper King Distillery in North Yorkshire to create a not-for-profit spirit to help hospitality workers hit hard by the pandemic’s economic knock-on effects.
The Drinks Trust and Hospitality Action are the main causes supported. Let’s help where we can. The gin is £37 from Hospitalitygin.co.uk and masterofmalt. com