MARKET WATCH

PANERAI CALIFORNIA

This circa-1999 reissue is a direct nod to Panerai’s original 1930s Radiomir, developed for the Royal Italian Navy. The Californian (half Arabic/half Roman) dial is a marker of the Art Deco style popularised by Panerai and Rolex at the time. A similar model was released as a limited series of 750 in 2012, with brown strap and caramel numerals – the c1999 version has the advantage of not having the rather unnecessary ‘Vintage’ inscription on its bezel to indicate its heritage. Furthermore, the black leather strap lends it a dressier feel. It costs £9995. See www.goldsmiths.co.uk.

ROLEX 116610LV SUBMARINER

Some Rolexes are almost impossible to find and the ‘Hulk’ is one of them. It was released in 2010, its green aesthetic causing a stir – its predecessor, the 16610LV anniversary edition (aka the Kermit), was equally controversial in 2003, with green bezel and black dial. Few could have anticipated the buzz around this green-on-green version, which packs a punch thanks to a scratchproof Cerachrom bezel and sunburst metallic dial. Pre-owned pieces often fetch up to £3000 more than Rolex’s new price of £6600. Armour Winston has an unworn 2018 edition for £9750.

PATEK PHILIPPE 3802/200

This Calatrava with signature hobnail bezel has the added benefit of a date window – not a common find with Roman numerals. The 18ct yellow gold watch has the purity of the classically proportioned ultra-thin flagship but, at 33mm in diameter, the 3802/200 is arguably less desirable than more contemporary 35mm iterations. That’s good news for those who prefer petite dress watches since this small dent in desirability makes it one of the more affordable vintage Pateks. This one sold at Chiswick Auctions in February for £6000 including fees.