Our pro says...

THE SERVICE

This is Gordon Ramsay’s second Maze Grill (the third opened on Royal Hospital Road in May). If staf at all the branches are as well chosen as they have been here, the group will thrive; they were charming. There was no pressure to leave, and tap water was given and reflled readily. *I don’t think I was recognised.

THE FOOD

Maze Grill Park Walk is in one of the wealthiest parts of London and although it’s not exactly cheap, it’s also not as pricey as it might be. That said, £5 for a bowl of buter letuce or £4 for a pile of chunky chips is just silly. There are a few healthy options – like an excellent, shimmeringly fresh, if incongruous, sashimi plater (£16) – but mostly it’s about posh fast food; steaks (from £14), burgers (£14), bufalo chicken (decorous fllets, not messy wings, £4 for a small plate), or delicious litle sof shell crab sliders: crisp batered crab spilling out and oozing with cocktail sauce (£11 as a starter). The short rib burger was crammed into a glossy brioche bun with melted cheese escaping from the sides and plenty of juicy pickles and bacon. The gratuitous macaroni cheese (£5) I had on the side seemed to be mostly cream, which was fne with me. The kitchen was running a special ofer of steak and chips for £14, as a way of encouraging customers to eat more British beef. Surely, though, an easier way of encouraging us to eat British meat would be to take the USDA beef and wagyu of the menu? Frozen lime yogurt with toasted meringue was a sharp and zingy treat, and the strawberry Eton mess was a riot of fruit and cream (both are £6).

THE BOTTOM LINE

With green leather banquetes and eclectic art, there’s nothing outrageously individual about how Maze Grill looks; but the Americaninspired, fashionably indulgent food is served pretily. If Mr Ramsay ever wants to open one in my neighbourhood, I won’t complain. Bill was £110.25 for two, including service