Cook like a local: Sweden

Black bread, baked cauliflower and juniper soup, and baked apple, baked chocolate and chestnut

With brackish waters at every turn and seas flanking both sides of the country, it’s only natural that seafood features heavily on Sweden’s menus. Classically paired with dill, salmon is commonly seen, however there’s far more to Swedish food than this (and meatballs, for that matter). Forest fruits, mushrooms, game, a wide range of dairy produce and Northern-climate-tolerant vegetables form the foundation of a surprisingly diverse cuisine. ‘Husmans kost’, a term that describes the country’s classic home-cooking, typically involves hearty winter dishes that borrow much from classic French recipes (notable differences include increased use of sweet and sour flavourings, and liberal quantities of white pepper); think venison with blackberries and hasselback potatoes. But Sweden has seen a resurgent interest in food over recent years, with two very obvious results. The first is a rediscovery of ancient grains, foraged greens and forgotten cooking techniques, both in home kitchens and in restaurants championing the new Nordic cuisine. The second is an abundance of new places to eat springing up across all price levels. At the more casual end of the market this has been helped, in Stockholm at least, by a recent relaxation of rules regarding food premises. A subsequent food truck frenzy has been sparked, in turn helping to improve the quality and authenticity of both local and imported dishes. Some of the flavour combinations Swedes grow up with may not instantly appeal to British palates (sharp-sweet lingonberries, for example, are often served with fish), but don’t be afraid to order something you normally wouldn’t – it’s very likely you will be pleasantly surprised.

Black bread 2½ HOURS|MAKES 2 LOAVES|EASY There’s nothing more distinctively Nordic than a loaf of dark bread on the kitchen table. Each country has its own version made, from various grains and with an array of textures, but they are almost always sweetened with molasses, malt, or some form of syrup. Buy wheat germ and cracked wheat from health food shops.

wholemeal flour 300g plain flour 270g coarse wholemeal rye flour 80g wheat bran 30g wheat germ 50g fine cracked wheat (or bulgar wheat)140g mixed spice 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1¼ tbsp fine salt 1½ tsp light molasses 140g whole milk 350ml natural yogurt 500g raisins 50g sunflower oil for the tins sunflower seeds 60g

• Heat the oven to 170C/fan 150C/gas 3½. Combine the flours, wheat bran, wheat germ, cracked wheat, mixed spice, bicarbonate of soda and salt in a large bowl. Add the molasses, milk, yogurt and raisins and mix well.The dough will be wet, like cement, and it should fall off your hands if held up.

• Oil two 25cm x 10cm loaf tins. Sprinkle the sunflower seeds over the base of the tins and try to get some to stick to the sides too.

• Divide the dough between the tins and cook on the bottom shelf of the oven for 2 hours.

• Remove from the oven and allow to rest in their tins for 10 minutes before turning onto a wire rack to cool. Serve with butter and thin slices of cheese or with some peas and soft cheese mixed with grated horseradish. Baked cauliflower and juniper soup 1 HOUR|SERVES 4|EASY Roasting the cauliflower whole brings out a distinctly nutty, caramelised flavour. It’s enhanced in this recipe by brown butter and fragrant juniper.

juniper berries 4 flaked salt 1 tbsp whole cauliflower 600g rapeseed oil butter 50g chicken stock 600ml, hot crème fraîche or soured cream (optional) 100g white pepper

• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Using a mortar and pestle, grind the juniper berries with the salt.

• Remove most of the leaves from the cauliflower, keeping a few around the base. Rub the juniper berry mixture and 1 tbsp oil over the cauliflower. Put on a baking tray and roast for 40 minutes, or until golden brown all over. Check that it’s cooked by piercing the thicker stems with a sharp knife; they should be tender. If it’s not quite ready, reduce the temperature to 170C/fan 150C/gas 31/2 and cook for a little longer.

• To make brown butter, heat the butter in a small pan for 2-3 minutes until it turns light brown. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and transfer the browned butter to a heatproof dish. This will stop the butter from cooking further, and becoming too dark.

• Remove the cauliflower from the oven and break apart the florets, reserving the thinner leaves for a garnish. Blend the cauliflower in a blender or liquidiser, adding the hot stock gradually. It should have a fairly thick consistency, so you may not need all the stock.

• Add the brown butter, crème fraîche or soured cream (if using) and a pinch of white pepper, and blend again. Check the seasoning before serving, with the reserved leaves on top.

45 MINUTES|SERVES 4|EASY

Like many other ingredients, such as malt, forest herbs and ancient grains, white chocolate has been happily taken up by the new Nordic tradition.When baked it develops a strong caramel flavour and crunchy texture that is perfect for garnishing desserts. It’s incredibly sweet, so in this recipe it’s balanced by the earthiness of the chestnut cream.

unsalted butter 2 tbsp, softened Granny Smith apples 3, cored and sliced into 1.5cm thick discs ground cinnamon ½ tsp light brown sugar 2 tbsp cider or apple juice 250ml white chocolate 100g, broken into 2cm chunks whipping cream 200ml chestnut purée 2 tbsp

• Heat the oven to 170C/fan 150/gas 3. Liberally butter each side of the apple slices. Put on a baking tray lined with baking paper and sprinkle with the cinnamon and sugar. Cook for 30 minutes, until soft, flipping them over halfway through cooking. • While the apples are cooking, reduce the cider in a small saucepan set over high heat until it’s one quarter of its original volume. Remove from the heat and set aside. (As it cools, the sauce will thicken slightly. If it’s too thick when you want to serve, whisk in a little water to thin it.) • Line a baking tray with baking paper and spread the pieces of chocolate out on it. Cook in the oven with the apples for 5-8 minutes, until the chocolate turns a slightly tan colour. Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely. • Whip the cream to stiff peaks, then carefully fold through the chestnut purée.The purée contains natural oils that can break down the cream if it’s mixed in too fast. • Allow the apples to cool slightly on their tray, then divide between four serving plates and top with the chestnut cream and crumble over the white chocolate. Drizzle with the cider reduction to serve.