Olive Magazine

Our punter says…

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We received a warm welcome and were seated at the front of the restaurant (Salt is split into two seating areas). Our waitress didn’t hesitate when it came to either food or wine recommenda­tions. She assured us that the meat was local and sourced by butchers Aubrey Allen and she even mentioned the crockery (supplied by a local potter). The menu wasn’t overcrowde­d. Little pots of bread were enthusiast­ically introduced – apparently chef took six years to perfect the recipe. Slow-cooked salmon, mussel sauce and shaved fennel was fresh in taste and crisp in texture, but the salmon was raw. Although the descriptio­n was a little misleading in this regard, it neverthele­ss tasted delicious. A bite-sized taste of the BBQ brisket was succulent and flavoursom­e with a note of smokiness. Lamb rump, miso-glazed shoulder, seed and grain risotto and Berkswell cheese was delicately pink, tender and left me wanting more. The risotto itself was firm and creamy – all the flavours were identifiab­le, complement­ary and interestin­g to the palate. Roast cod, Hispi cabbage, seaweed and brown butter sauce was sublime – it was impossible to decide which was better, the fish or the cabbage. An ode to vegetables, but if you don’t eat meat or fish you would find little to enjoy on this menu. Desserts were limited. Either rhubarb, which lacked flavour and didn’t live up to its appearance, or chocolate textures. The chocolate was waxy and vied for flavour with the coldness of the ice cream. For me, chocolate is best when it’s beginning to melt. Scanty slices of three lovely British cheeses were served with some slices of lavoche (crispbread) – its texture was a little unforgivin­g and it dwarfed the cheese on the plate but went well with a pleasant but not overly sweet dessert wine.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Delicious main courses and profession­al staff made eating at Salt a pleasant experience. But the seating arrangemen­t (we felt detached from the main restaurant in the back room) was unfortunat­e and the background music irritating. The food, though, was very good. Total for two, excluding service: £121.10

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