WHATLEY MANOR, MALMESBURY, WILTSHIRE

Niall Keating took over the pass at Whatley Manor as executive chef on 1 December. It was a bold choice given that it’s the 26-year-old’s first head/executive chef position, because, under the long direction of Niall’s predecessor, the Hotel held two Michelin stars. But Niall’s career’s been a glittering one so far – he’s worked his way up through the ranks of The Bath Priory, Restaurant Sat Bains, Benu (in San Francisco) and Kong Hans Kaelder (in Copenhagen), restaurants that have seven Michelin stars between them. His new menu is markedly different. Shunning classical flavours that became synonymous with Whatley – foie gras, truffle, langoustine – Niall’s cooking blends the best of Korean, Japanese, British and classical French. It’s innovative – take the third course of 12, for example: wibbly egg-white custard topped with glistening amber pearls of salmon roe which, we’re told, have been marinated in tamari and mirin for days. This one tiny bowl revealed a subtle and dynamic balance of flavour and texture with every little pop of the delicate eggs. It’s a seafood-heavy menu, but never one-dimensional. ‘Risotto’ made with sushi rice is greater than the sum of its parts – topped with a bleeding crumble of chorizo and cubes of sweet, raw scallop; it sung. Even the bread works hard: served with an aerated brown butter with buttermilk and Marmite, and a glass of beer from nearby Three Daggers Brewery; it tastes of Bonfire Night. The experience has changed, too – it’s still formal (white starched tablecloths, hushed conversations) but chefs now serve and explain each course. One of many greats is a wild-card pudding of aloe vera, grape and olive oil – it’s clean, green and supremely refreshing. Some of the most exciting food in the country right now – Niall Keating just set the bar. whatleymanor.com (Words by Laura Rowe)