LISBON

Centuries of culinary exchange between Portugal and its colonies have left a delicious legacy in its capital. Don’t leave town without trying authentic piri piri chicken, rich fish stew, glasses of crisp vinho verde and a custard tart or three

Perched on seven steep hills with the wide blue mouth of the River Tagus lapping its feet, Lisbon, Europe’s most westerly capital city, has absorbed flavours from all over the world for centuries. By the time it was overrun by Christian invaders in the 12th century, it had already been fought over by the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans and Moors; the Christians turned it into a maritime superpower, with an empire and spice trade routes stretching from South America, through Africa and into Asia. Today, even after decades of political and economic struggle, the centre of the city is still fabulously grand, with elegant plazas, domed churches and pale cobbled streets shining almost white in the sunshine. Centuries of culinary exchange between Portugal and its colonies have left a wonderful legacy – from the cinnamon that came from Sri Lanka and the piri piri peppers that came from south America via Africa to the astonishingly good Goan restaurants hidden in corners of the city. More recently, innovative young chefs have re-imagined classic Portuguese dishes and techniques, using familiar ingredients in new and often startling ways, making Lisbon one of the most exciting cities in the world for food (try restaurants A Cevicheria, Boi-Cavolo, Estrela de Bica or the Once Upon A Table pop up). Seek out bars specialising in petiscos, Lisbon’s very hearty version of tapas. Avoid restaurants in obvious tourist areas if you want to try authentic and well-made Portuguese dishes. Neighbourhood restaurants full of locals are where you will find the best piri piri chicken and grilled sardines.