CLAUDE BOSI AT BIBENDUM, LONDON SW3

Kensington’s Bibendum has produced some serious alumni – Simon Hopkinson, Jeremy Lee, Bruce Poole and Phil Howard – but 2017 sees the former Michelin HQ with its most exciting (if controversial) chef behind the pass, Claude Bosi. The restaurant’s had a refresh – those stained glass windows featuring Monsieur Bibendum (aka the Michelin Man) still take centre stage – and Claude and his brigade are on full display. This isn’t an everyday kind of place, so expect pomp and a hefty price tag – three courses set you back £85. But there are surprise extras including ‘olives’ that turn out to be glossy crisp shells of cocoa butter filled with melting flavours of pissaladière, and chicken skin that’s popped and crackled and served with a slick of mayo that tastes as good as savoury juices surreptitiously licked from a Sunday roast tin. Dinner proper is a nod to Hisbiscus and Bibendum, past and future. Sea bream with meaty morels, heavy with a coffee and tarragon sauce is the highlight. This is an exciting new era for a classic restaurant. bibendum.co.uk (Words by Laura Rowe)