Weekender: Stockholm
Take refuge from the snow-dusted streets of the Swedish capital by heading to the nearest fireside and ordering glasses of glögg or herring gratin
Take refuge from the snow-dusted streets of the Swedish capital by heading to the nearest fireside and ordering glasses of glögg or herring gratin
1 Fire in the belly Niklas Ekstedt revives old Swedish cooking traditions at his Michelinstarred restaurant, Ekstedt. Watch the chefs use birch in open fire pits and wood-fired ovens to create stunning New Nordic dishes such as reindeer baked in embers, birch-fired pork and 2 wood-fired almond cake. ekstedt.nu
Isle be there In the heart of Södermalm, Stockholm’s central island, Il Caffé is where locals flock for fika (coffee and cake). Snuggle up in one of the nooks in this warren of a café with a cinnamon or cardamom bun 3and a filter coffee. ilcaffe.se
Hot shots Brasserie Riche has been around for over 100 years, welcoming everyone from Stockholm’s high society to bright young things. Sit at the bar beneath champagne-glass chandeliers and knock back a ‘hot shot’ (a tiny glass filled with coffee, liqueur and whipped cream), or set up camp in the conservatory for a shellfish brunch or beef fillet rydberg with sautéed potatoes. riche.se 4 A rye smile Take a tip from the city’s top chefs and head to Bageri Petrus for fresh rye loaves in all shapes and sizes. Or grab a pastry to enjoy on the bench in the window and watch Stockholmers go by. 5 facebook.com/Bageripetrus
Craft work Those in the know head to tiny deli-café Katarina and order the reuben sandwich on rye bread, packed with home-cured pastrami, Swiss cheese and gherkins. The bar is lined with colourful cans and bottles of craft beers; take your pick, perch on one of the high banquettes and tuck in. 6 katarinaolkafe.se
Swede tooth The focus at Adam/Albin is on simple, seasonal Swedish flavours served in a contemporary space. Diners gather around sharing tables for five-course menus, or sit at the bar to order à la carte. Try porcini mushroom dumplings, caramelised langoustines with Iberian pork cheeks, and rye sourdough and beer pancakes. adamalbin.se 7 Dive in Join the party at spruced-up dive bar Omnipollos Hatt, a hip spot where the Omnipollo brewery showcases everything from small-batch pale ales on tap to ice cream stouts. Pair with a pizza slice, popped between gigantic purple lips into the pizza oven (unique toppings include Korean beef, juniper-smoked sausage, and chorizo with padrón peppers). 8 omnipolloshatt.com
Mull it over Snuggle under blankets with a warm glass of glögg (mulled wine) in the lantern-lit courtyard of stylish townhouse hotel, Ett Hem. Or make yourself at home in its farmhouse-style kitchen, then order from a three-course menu to eat in front of the open fire – guinea fowl with chanterelles, perhaps, or 9 steamed cod with roast cauliflower. etthem.se Food that sings Opulent Operakällaren restaurant sits within Stockholm’s grand Royal Opera House. Dress up to visit this famous wood-panelled dining room, or choose the building’s more laidback counter bar, The Hip Pocket, and tuck into traditional meatballs or herring gratin from the archipelago. 10 operakallaren.se
Hall of fame Since 1888, Östermalms Saluhall market hall has been a thriving foodie hub. Browse the traditional wooden market stalls packed with fresh fish and cured meats, then stop off for a fish soup at fisherman’s daughter Lisa Elmqvist’s seafood restaurant, or pick up a healthy wrap and fresh juice to go from Mesh. ostermalmshallen.se