Olive Magazine

Pro vs punter

Does a regular diner reach the same conclusion about a restaurant as a food pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?* Laura Rowe and O reader Chris Attoe compare notes on this fine-dining experience on offer in Notting Hill

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Laura Rowe and Chris Attoe swap notes on Core by Clare Smyth in London

The pro

Our editor Laura Rowe has reviewed restaurant­s for more than a decade. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @laurarowee­ats.

The punter

London-based Chris Attoe’s favourite food is Malaysian and he runs Southeast Asian supper club Slô Street Food. His top eating-out experience was Decatur for Louisianas­tyle food, and his guilty pleasure is eating Manílife peanut butter from the jar.

Core by Clare Smyth

After gaining a starry reputation (as chef patron at three-Michelin-starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, and receiving an MBE for services to the hospitalit­y industry), Clare Smyth has opened her first restaurant. The 54-cover venue in Notting Hill gives fine dining a contempora­ry edge, with huge windows letting in plenty of natural light and not a single white tablecloth in sight.

Clare grew up on a farm in County Antrim in Northern Ireland, and she continues to work with farmers to champion sustainabl­e UK produce. It’s hard to get a reservatio­n, but if you do, choose between the tasting menu (£95 per person), the five-course menu (£80 at lunch, £85 at dinner) or the three-course menu (£65 at lunch, £75 at dinner). Clare and her team work behind a glass wall to prepare dishes such as Isle of Mull scallop cooked over wood, lamb with braised carrot and sheep’s milk yogurt, and pain perdu with peaches and cream. corebyclar­esmyth.com

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