Table-hopping

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With its high ceilings, vast white-marble counter and spare, sleek décor, Matt Gillan’s latest venture, since leaving The Pass in West Sussex (which held a Michelin star during Matt’s tenure) feels more swanky Balearic island than rough-around-the-edges Brighton.

Matt makes good-looking food that you can try via a small-plate à la carte and taster menus of six, eight or 10 courses; however, the opening ‘snacks’ on our visit – including a very ordinary sushi nigiri and a blob of bloody mary on a spoon – was an odd medley. The following four plates also underwhelmed, such as a too-salty, tempura-battered oyster with scarcely detectable white chocolate.

The next five dishes, however, seriously impressed. Each are delivered by chefs who humbly explain their creations. Waiting staff, too, are friendly, chatty and well versed on the wines.

Tender octopus was matched with a slice of earthy black pudding, sweet mango and slivers of peppery radish. Two cuts of pink lamb combined flawlessly with strawberries, onions, samphire and aromatic curried quinoa. A slice of nutty Wigmore ewe’s milk cheese came adorned with cool watermelon cubes and drops of honey. To finish, a lighter-than-a-cloud coconut foam with raspberry ice cream, followed by a fluffy chocolate mousse that contrasted pleasingly with little bites of marzipan and a tart cherry sorbet.

A meal of two halves but if the kitchen can achieve the high level we saw in the final five courses, throughout, they will have something truly special. pikeandpine.co.uk (Words by Dom Martin)