Chef’s table

Rob Howell brings a veggie-forward menu to Bristol restaurant, Root

The arrival of Root in Bristol in 2017 signalled a wind of change. One that smelt of edible, ethical roses, presumably. Taking the place of Chicken Shed, an ill-fated venture by the same owners who wanted to serve sustainable and affordable chicken, Root was one of the country’s first, new-wave veggie-forward restaurants. Not vegetarian, not vegan, not worthy or preachy but a tiny, shipping container where plants make a serious impact on the highly seasonal small-plates menu.

From the open kitchen, inspired and joyful dishes are delivered to the few communal tables thanks to head chef Rob Howell (formerly head chef of Michelin-starred

The Pony & Trap in Chew Magna, also part of the same group) and his team. Creamy, collapsing local burrata is surrounded by a pebbly shore of dukkah and smoked rapeseed oil. Brussels sprouts become necessary for life and not just for Christmas when paired with chestnut purée and caramelised, buttery potato gnocchi the size of fat witchetty grubs. There are beetroot stacks and cauliflower steaks, and aubergine tartare with the likes of dates, feta and crispy croutons. Flavour, tick, texture, tick. All of your five-a-day, tick.

There are a few fish and meat plates, too, which are cooked just as well – from moreishly savoury whipped cod’s roe with charred flatbreads, to pickled oysters or onglet tartare served beneath a nest of matchstick fries (made from left-over potato scraps) and a cured, pickled egg yolk.

Take your friends. Order everything from the menu. Share if you must. Order more again. And another round of negronis. You won’t regret it. Power to the plants! eatdrinkbristolfashion.co.uk/root