Weekender: Brussels

Brisket with smoked-butter potatoes and smashable chocolate desserts are on the menu in the Belgian capital

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Tasting menu At lunchtime, the tasting room at new cheese shop La Fruitière offers mixed platters, fondues and inspired sandwiches (think warm smoked ham and raw milk tomme du jura or fresh Belgian goat’s cheese on sourdough baguettes) with well-priced wines by the glass. facebook.com/lafruitierebrussels

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Choux polish Peaceful Chouconut serves rare leaf teas and jewel-bright miniature choux buns. Try delicate lemon and yuzu, pear and blackcurrant, or go all out with the indulgent chocolate, caramel and peanut Snickers version. Its chocolate and Guérande salt shortbread or mango and passion fruit caramels make perfect gifts. chouconut.com

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Star pick Isabelle Arpin won a Michelin star at her last venture, WY. Now she’s cooking in the intimate surroundings of Louise 345, a beautifully restored 1870s townhouse overlooking a mature garden.

The Asian-inspired tartare of shrimp, popcorn bacon and peanut sorbet is a stunning balance of richness and delicacy. louise345.com

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Croqs of gold Croquettes are Belgium’s lesser-known national dish: unctuous, deep-fried cushions of calorific joy. Buzzy bistro La Maison Blanche offers truffle, brie and walnut, or manchego, serrano ham and piquillo pepper varieties, as well as the traditional shrimp. With a good cocktail menu, it’s the perfect aperitif spot. facebook.com/LaMaisonBlancheRestaurant

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Best of cluck Fred Antoine’s happy hens from rural Lustin grace the plates of Michelin-starred BonBon and Le Chalet de la Forêt; now he’s serving them himself at

La Pouletterie en Ville, an airy converted garage. Order a perfectly roasted quarter or half bird with roast potatoes and salad. lapouletterie.be

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Note perfect Noma alumnus Yannick Van Aeken dishes up exciting sharing plates at Humphrey, his cool canteen in indie record label PIAS’s headquarters. Choose from revved-up comfort food (wings with blue cheese) or Scandi (seaweed asparagus salad), and save space for the chocolate dome you smash to reveal homemade truffles. humphreyrestaurant.com

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Pick and mixology Rickety, joyful trattoria Cipiace is an unexpected place to find some of the best and most surprising cocktails in the city: try a few with its excellent artisanal charcuterie and cheese antipasto platter. The Preferito, with grappa, chestnut honey, bitters and homemade mandarin soda, is highly recommended. cipiace.be

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Have a brew The Cantillon Brewery hasn’t changed its method for making its seductively sour, naturally fermented gueuze beers since it opened in 1900: take a tour around the atmospheric copper vats and ancient wooden barrels, then taste the wares: the cherry kriek is deliciously fruity. cantillon.be

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Take it slow The giant smoker imported from Dallas in the entrance sets the scene:

Holy Smoke is all about meat, smoked slow and low. Don’t miss the meltingly tender brisket platter, served with smoked-butter potatoes and some imaginative salads. The bourbon bar and cocktails are worth a trip in their own right. facebook.com/HolysmokeBrussels

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Get your claws into this Deliberately under the radar, with no phone or website, sparse but stylish Crab Club is well worth searching out. The menu changes daily according to Thai-French chef Yoth Ondara’s mood, but expect the likes of beautiful garlicky razor clams, delicate sesame-crusted scallops and roast whole wild fish. 7 Chaussée de Waterloo, 00 32 472 55 46 95