Our pro says…

If you’ve not tried ‘modern Irish’ before, Nuala is a good initiation. Set on a grungy part of City Road, 30-year-old Northern Irish chef Niall Davidson and his head chef Colin McSherry are bringing Celtic-inspired cooking to London. With exposed brick walls and an industrial interior, Nuala is glossier than I’d expect for the area, but it suits the City workers down yonder. Highlights include a fire pit in the open kitchen and Irish boozer downstairs.

Service is cheerful, tap water unblinkingly given, and a tasting of numerous wines offered (including an unusual ballsy red from Pella in central Macedonia) by adept sommelier Honey Spencer. *I wasn’t recognised.

The menu is pared back but refined. Salt-baked beetroot, salsify and Isle of Mull cheddar is well balanced, the earthy beet subtly punctuating the farmyardy cheddar. A tartare comes with capers, a robust stout sauce to drizzle over, and unimpeachable dripping chips, a crisp exterior concealing cloud-soft potato. I’d return alone for the inspired combo of sweet, juicy clams, pistachio beurre blanc and sea-salt-accented samphire. The singed squidgy sourdough for mopping up the nutty juices is a blessing.

Gluttony leads us to the beef main. This isn’t a sharing menu but staff are charming when we ask to. Torloisk Highland fillet tastes mild compared to the current trend for full-flavoured, aged cow. Yet with the pickled cucumber element it’s elevated to delicate, smoky-nuanced beefiness. The champ side, with creamy potatoes and scallions, is unmissable.

Only the grilled rabbit, salt-baked celeriac and mustard disappoints. While it’s tender and honest, it’s borderline uninteresting compared to the previous riot.

For dessert, Guinness ice cream is light and wheaty. If I was being finicky, it was starting to melt so tasted a tad granular. A zingy, cleanflavoured tangerine tart with a blob of velvety soured cream, though, is polished off in seconds.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Niall has created a bold menu with many original dishes. Plus, it’s served by an experienced team. It’s a buzz, I’ll be back.

Total for two, excluding service: £130 FOOD: 9/10 SERVICE: 9/10 VIBE: 8/10