Olive Magazine

Our punter says…

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Shoreditch urban cool combined with modern cooking and a strong Irish influence describes newly opened Nuala. On arrival, we were warmly greeted by the staff, who made us feel at home and accommodat­ed our seating preference for a window booth. From start to finish the service was excellent – relaxed yet highly attentive and personalis­ed.

The cocktail menu was short but the barman was adept at serving off-menu creations (my wife was driving so asked for a non-alcoholic cocktail). The Shaken Up Serve was a hit, a skilful combinatio­n of brandy, vermouth and cinnamon, with a hint of peatiness. We ordered a couple of snacks to go with our drinks – individual mouthfuls of melt-in-the-mouth cod’s roe biscuit with guacamole and fresh foie gras slivers on soda bread.

Mussels (the shellfish of the day) and pistachio beurre blanc to start was a delight. Plump, juicy mussels cooked with stout rather than wine, with samphire adding saltiness. The buttery sauce was enhanced by savoury notes from the beer, an ideal marriage with the accompanyi­ng sourdough.

The humble rabbit was celebrated as a main course, with a loin filled with light, nutty stuffing and a full leg on the bone. The meat was incredibly moist and cooked carefully, with crisp skin on the leg. It was further enhanced by a light mustard and herb sauce, and cubes of salt-baked celeriac, which released a hit of creamy nuttiness in the mouth. The waiter suggested a side of baked heritage carrots, which were full of natural sweetness. We were recommende­d a glass of nebbiolo d’Alba, which had an intense bouquet of autumnal fruits.

To finish, a pumpkin ice cream, silky smooth with salty shards of wafer-thin meringue and chopped walnuts, was perfectly balanced, slightly savoury and beautifull­y executed.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Nuala was a great experience – original and inventive food, good wine selection, fantastic service and a relaxed, unique atmosphere focussed around the fire pit.

Total for two, excluding service: £127.35 FOOD: 9/10 SERVICE: 10/10 VIBE: 8/10

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