OSTERIA ROMANA, LONDON SW1

Osteria Romana strikes a surprisingly low-key note considering its upscale location, right next to Hyde Park and the five-star Bulgari Hotel. A small, softly lit space, the décor keeps it simple with plain wooden flooring and furniture, earthy-hued walls and copper lamps that shine inviting pools of light over each table. The effect is intimate, unpretentious but still tastefully sleek.

Dishes maintain a strictly Roman focus – ingredients such as salt cod, pecorino, artichokes and broad beans abound, and the menu is full of classics native to the Eternal City, from cacio e pepe and bucatini amatriciana to Roman-style tripe and oxtail stew.

Fat, handmade gnocchi were the stars of our antipasti. Pleasingly fluffy, they came drizzled with a moreish black truffle and pecorino sauce. Well-made rice croquettes, too, with a crisp exterior and meaty ragu filling, were complemented by a tangy tomato velouté.

Spaghetti carbonara, that iconic Roman dish, was note perfect, with a silky, properly emulsified sauce. Tonnarelli with artichokes and red prawns combined juicy crustacean with dried shards of artichokes and a bisque-like sauce. Lamb chops – served with ultra-smooth mashed potatoes and crispy leeks – were pink, tender and deeply flavoured.

Desserts are simple and straightforward – from tiramisu to cherry and ricotta tart – and the concise wine list is almost entirely Italian. We enjoyed a smoky sangiovese and montepulciano blend, and a fruity ripasso. osteriaromana.co.uk (Words by Hannah Guinness)