Table-hopping

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Le Pont de la Tour has held an iconic position on the Thames waterfront since 1992, although the cooking has gone through many changes, the latest of which is the appointment of chef Julien Imbert (ex-head chef of City Social where he gained the restaurant’s first Michelin star).

The cosy, low-lit dining room has one of the best views in London. The bar/brasserie and separate restaurant stretch through one long narrow room overlooking the river, and at night the lit-up Tower Bridge can be seen twinkling through the windows. The vibe is grown-up – think crisp white linen, sparkling glassware and attentive (but not overbearing) service.

Julien’s food is billed as French with modern touches. We shared some spankingly fresh oysters served two ways – classic with shallot vinegar and a bit fancier with confit lemon, caviar and green shiso. Another starter of cured salmon with miso mayo, pickled cucumber and lemon gel was the prettiest dish of the night: delicately cured lozenges of salmon interspersed with pops of lemon and miso flavour served with tiny melt-in-the-mouth crisps of squid ink.

Fish seems to be a strength here as both our Cornish cod and halibut mains flaked into perfectly pearly chunks and harmonious flavours: the cod with truffled mash, roscoff onion and a silky mushroom ravioli, and halibut with curried velouté, mussels and a gruyère crust.

The dessert menu is short – we went for a simple tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream, crisp and cooked to a deep rich caramel. Shared because we were full but very quickly snaffled. lepontdelatour.co.uk

(Words by Janine Ratcliffe)