ROGANIC, LONDON W1

Former pop-up Roganic is the latest restaurant from pioneering British chef and restaurateur, Simon Rogan, with head chef Oli Marlow at the helm. Those familiar with Simon’s L’Enclume set-up will feel at home in this new Marylebone address. The design is stark – polished concrete-style floors, brushed copper-like walls, starched tablecloths. But what the décor lacks in warmth, is made up for in spades by the cheery team.

Depending on which day you visit, and whether you’re in for lunch or dinner, there’s a choice of a ‘short’ tasting menu (£80, 10 courses), the regular tasting menu (£115) of 17 courses (18 with bread and butter) , or a set business lunch (£40) of six courses.

Of the 17, preserved raspberry tarts are a burst of sweet and sour flavour. Savoury seaweed custard is soul-warmingly comforting, served just warm with a pop of onyx caviar. Mushroom broth poured over a golden egg yolk, gently smoked, and more ’shrooms of various shapes and textures feels like a culinary tumble through an Alice in Wonderland rabbit hole.

With a menu this long, though, there’s bound to be some filler and these arrive as the plates get bigger. Salt-baked celeriac was lost in its seasoning. But things pick up again with the six desserts – one is the best dish of the night. Working out how long it took to create the tightly wound round of caramelised apple is almost as satisfying as eating the thing.

And as you leave? You’re handed a doggy bag packed with bespoke-blend earl grey tea bags, slices of ‘breakfast’ cake and a mini pot of jam for the next morning. Now that’s what you call service. roganic.uk (Words by Laura Rowe)