THE LITTLE CHARTROOM, EDINBURGH

The Little Chartroom in Leith is a neighbourhood bistro with bags of style. Wee, in the true Scottish sense of the word, with commissioned artworks created from old shipping charts on the walls, there’s the one room, with an open kitchen and seats at the bar. The wine list is well curated thanks to Edinburgh wine merchant L’Art du Vin, while former Castle Terrace chef Roberta Hall-McCarron, who previously trained at The Kitchin, is in charge of the food with Rose Gregory, previously head chef at The Fat Pony, assisting her. The pair appear to have a penchant for good ingredients, treated with respect. The finished dishes are contemporary without being too clever. During lunch you can order a selection of small plates, while dinner follows a more conventional threecourse structure. A standout dish of crab, tomato gazpacho, pepper, celery and cucumber was unbelievably good. Light and refreshing, perfect for the summer evening it was served on. Lamb “selection” was equally delicious and included a perfectly pink fillet, lamb liver and crispy lamb belly croquette served with anchovy potatoes and hispi cabbage. Dark-chocolate raspberry tart and local cheeses came for dessert, but the highlight was a malt panna cotta, earl grey caramel, malted crumb, earl grey madeleines, charred orange and orange confit – think tea and biscuits wrapped up in a beautiful dessert. We’ll be returning for haggis sausage roll with turnip ketchup.