Chef’s ta­ble

Olive - - CONTENTS - Recipes CHRIS BOUSTEAD Pho­to­graphs DAVID COTSWORTH

Try quirky small plates with a Bri­tish twist from chef Chris Bousted of new Is­ling­ton wine shop and restau­rant, Lin­den Stores

Try quirky small plates with a Bri­tish twist from chef Chris Boustead of new Is­ling­ton wine shop and restau­rant, Lin­den Stores

Lin­den Stores is the kind of re­laxed neigh­bour­hood hang­out ev­ery­one wishes they had on their doorstep. The brain­child of chef Chris Boustead (for­merly of Opera Tav­ern and The Ten Bells) and Laura Christie (who al­ready has a full-time job as half of the team be­hind Oklava and Ky­seri), the wine shop and restau­rant was con­ceived as place where Chris could cook part-time (it only opens evenings, Wed­nes­day to Satur­day) and still have time to spend with their young son, Ol­lie. The shop is crammed with mostly Euro­pean bot­tles sourced from smaller wine­mak­ers by Laura (in­clud­ing plenty from Tur­key) which are avail­able to take away or drink in for £10 cork­age. There is also a se­lec­tion of wines by the glass each day at £5 each.

The space is small and cosy, with ta­bles in the shop up­stairs and restau­rant down­stairs. The fre­quently chang­ing menu is in­spired by Bri­tish sea­sons as well as Chris’s York­shire her­itage. Each eclec­tic small plate re­ally packs in the flavour. Bread comes with a scoop of whipped Mar­mite but­ter; slow­cooked pig’s cheeks are glazed in a rich umami sauce and gar­nished with sweet and sharp pick­led cherries, and a silky turnip purée. Lightly smoked creamy yo­gurt en­riches a dish of long-stemmed broc­coli with crunchy fried shal­lots, peanuts and cheese.

A must or­der are the crisp, deep-fried cro­quettes, filled with pea and York­shire Fet­tle – a feta-like sheep’s cheese with a zing. Else­where there is home­made char­cu­terie, fresh oys­ters and a Bri­tish cheese­board for those only want­ing a snack with their wine. Top retro points go to a pud of choco­late bour­bon bis­cuits filled with but­ter­cream and served with sharp, creamy rhubarb ice cream. lin­den­stores.co.uk

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